Kentucky · Rock climbing · Beattyville

The UnHoley Wall

10 sport climbing routes at UnHoley Wall in Kentucky, ranging across 9 difficulty grades.

The UnHoley WallPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)
10 routes
5.9+ – 5.13b
Sport

Is UnHoley Wall, The open right now?

Closure in the area

There's a closure order in Daniel Boone National Forest. It doesn't name UnHoley Wall, The, so check the source for the area it covers (2 listed).

As of · Source: USFS · Daniel Boone National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit The UnHoley Wall

Best months: August–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    42° / 24°

    13 wet

  2. Feb

    47° / 27°

    13 wet

  3. Mar

    57° / 34°

    15 wet

  4. Apr

    68° / 44°

    15 wet

  5. May

    75° / 53°

    15 wet

  6. Jun

    82° / 61°

    14 wet

  7. Jul

    84° / 65°

    14 wet

  8. Aug

    84° / 64°

    12 wet

  9. Sep

    79° / 57°

    10 wet

  10. Oct

    69° / 44°

    12 wet

  11. Nov

    57° / 35°

    12 wet

  12. Dec

    46° / 28°

    13 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Beattyville 4n, KY, 0.8 mi away at 1,080 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

The UnHoley Wall is a sport climbing area in Kentucky's Daniel Boone National Forest, within the Cumberland Ranger District. It sits among a cluster of similar-sounding walls, with A-Hole Wall and B-Hole Wall each about 0.1 mile away, and Hole New Wall just as close. The climbing here is all sport, and the routes run from about 5.9+ up to 5.13b. The hardest of them, The Unholey, is a 5.13b sport route first climbed by Blake Bowling with Ian Kirk's equipment. Loophole- is a 5.11b, and The Stokehole is a 5.11a, both also sport routes. Fall is the most comfortable time to visit. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Beattyville show October highs around 69°F with lows near 44°F, and September and October see the fewest wet days of the year. Nearby, the Sheltowee Trace high water route is about 3 miles away, and Lago Linda Hideaway campground is about 4 miles off. The Middle Fork Red River, a paddling route, is roughly 10 miles away.

Routes (10)

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive

B-Hole WallPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

B-Hole Wall

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Hole New WallPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Hole New Wall

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The Bear's DenPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

The Bear's Den

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Bear's Den, The in Kentucky has 36 climbing routes on 17 difficulty grades.

The UnlodePhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

The Unlode

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South ParkPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

South Park

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(1) Buckeye ButtressPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

(1) Buckeye Buttress

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Chocolate FactoryPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Chocolate Factory

~1 min drive

Chocolate Factory in Kentucky has 86 climbing routes.

Velo CragPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Velo Crag

~1 min drive

Velo Crag in Kentucky has 31 climbing routes with 18 difficulty grades.

The ShirePhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

The Shire

~1 min drive

Shire is a Kentucky climbing crag with 13 routes across 12 grades, offering bouldering pads, sport, and trad.

Courtesy WallPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Courtesy Wall

~1 min drive

6 sport climbing routes at Courtesy Wall in Kentucky.