Kentucky · Rock climbing · Beattyville

Chocolate Factory

Chocolate Factory in Kentucky has 86 climbing routes.

Chocolate FactoryPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)
86 routes
5.8 – 5.14c
Sport · Trad · Bouldering

Is Chocolate Factory open right now?

Closure in the area

There's a closure order in Daniel Boone National Forest. It doesn't name Chocolate Factory, so check the source for the area it covers (2 listed).

As of · Source: USFS · Daniel Boone National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Chocolate Factory

Best months: August–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    42° / 24°

    13 wet

  2. Feb

    47° / 27°

    13 wet

  3. Mar

    57° / 34°

    15 wet

  4. Apr

    68° / 44°

    15 wet

  5. May

    75° / 53°

    15 wet

  6. Jun

    82° / 61°

    14 wet

  7. Jul

    84° / 65°

    14 wet

  8. Aug

    84° / 64°

    12 wet

  9. Sep

    79° / 57°

    10 wet

  10. Oct

    69° / 44°

    12 wet

  11. Nov

    57° / 35°

    12 wet

  12. Dec

    46° / 28°

    13 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Beattyville 4n, KY, 1.1 mi away at 1,080 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Chocolate Factory is a climbing area in Kentucky's Daniel Boone National Forest, within the Cumberland Ranger District. It sits among a cluster of climbing spots, with What About Bob Wall about 0.1 mile away and Bald Rock Cove and Rival Wall each about 0.2 mile off. The area has 86 routes, mostly sport climbing with a few trad routes and one boulder problem. Grades run from 5.8 up to 5.14c, with Pure Imagination at 5.14c among the hardest. The Juggernaut is a sport route at 5.10b, and Easy Pickins is a trad route at 5.8. For timing, fall is the most comfortable season. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Beattyville show October highs around 69°F and lows near 44°F, with fewer wet days than spring. Nearby, the Sheltowee Trace high water route is about 2.6 miles away, and Lago Linda Hideaway campground is about 4.1 miles off. Paddlers can reach the Middle Fork Red River, about 9.5 miles away.

Routes (86)

EGBGFA: Mike Wheatley5.10aStrongyloidesFA: Dustin Stephens & Scott Hammon5.10aThrobbing EmotionsFA: Alan Grau5.10aWonkaholicFA: Blake Bowling, Steve Kauffman5.10aBreakin the LawFA: Will Sweeney, Quinn Hill5.10bEnd of InnocenceFA: Phil Wilkes, Art Cammers, 2009.5.10bGrandma JosephineFA: Curtis Gale-Dyer, Audrey Gale-Dyer5.10bOompaFA: Kenny Barker, Julie Smith, 20085.10bRobotic ThumbFA: Andrew Wheatley, Mike Wheatley - 20125.10bThe JuggernautFA: Dustin Stephens, Lena Bakanova5.10bThree StoogesFA: Ian Kirk, Peter Jones, Stephen Lander5.10bLoompaFA: Kenny Barker, Julie Smith, 20085.10cSnarf VictoryFA: Troy Davison in 20115.10cBabinski signFA: Dustin Stephens, Jeremy Kiner in 20125.10dMr. P.FA: Michael Albers5.10dThe Andy Man CanFA: Andy Davis5.10dThe Glass ElevatorFA: Nick Redinger, 20075.10dTheobromaFA: Dustin Stephens, Art Cammers5.10dSpinal TapFA: Alberto Lacayo III - 20145.11Through the Looking GlassFA: Russ Jackson 20095.11For Your HealthFA: Scott Curran5.11aOne Side Makes You TallerFA: Russ Jackson 20095.11aSquirrelworkerFA: Dustin Stephens5.11aTeam Tough on TourFA: Dave Quinn ( & team tough)5.11aUnknown5.11aWilly WonkaFA: Karen Clark, Joel Handley, Kipp Trummel5.11aHip to the JiveFA: Bentley Brackett 20105.11bNutter ButterFA: Christian Wallace, Patrick LaFree 20205.11bSunday Night CockfightsFA: Troy Davison5.11bThe Giant PeachFA: Dustin Stephens and Dan Beck, 20135.11bToxicodendronFA: Andrew Wheatley in 20125.11bClimactic CrushFA: Andrew Wheatley, 20125.11cEnkiduFA: Jimmy Farrell, Andrew Gearing, Dustin Stephens (2012)5.11cLimbic System5.11cGrumpalumpFA: Blake Bowling, Steve Kauffman in 1998 Length: 50ft5.11dScarlet ScorchdropperFA: Symon Ardila, Dustin Stephens in 20125.11dSnozzberriesFA: Kevin Quinn, Dan Beck 20125.11dStalkerFA: Ray Ellington and Kipp Trummel, 20095.11dWobblerFA: Ray Ellington, Kipp Trummel, 20095.11dBall Nuts and Brassies (Aka Broken Ankles)FA: Dan Beck 20125.12-Chocolate MyotisFA: Blake Bowling, Edwin Teran, Peter Jones - 20175.12aCrimp My RideFA: Mike Conley, Ron Snider in 20095.12aHookahFA: Ray Ellington & Kipp Trummel - 20095.12aIcebreakerFA: Dustin Stephens & Margarita Martinez5.12aJ Rat's BackFA: Dario Ventura, 20075.12aKeepin it RealFA: J Patton, D Stephens 20145.12aMike TeaveeFA: Kenny Barker 20075.12aNakedFA: Blake Bowling, Steve Kauffman in 19985.12aShootin' Hot HugsFA: Troy Davidson 20125.12aSwedish FishFA: Andrew Wheatley, 20125.12aA.L.F.FA: Troy Davison5.12bBleak DecemberFA: Andy Mann5.12bButane JunkyFA: Troy Davidson5.12bGilgameshFA: Jimmy Farrell, Andrew Gearing & Dustin Stephens5.12bKentucky Grape VineFA: Troy M. Davison - 20145.12bTwinkie's Little SisterFA: Martin Schepers, 20125.12bVeruca SaltFA: Kipp Trummel - 20085.12bFatmanFA: Craig Lewis - 20135.12cGobstopperFA: Ricky Parks & Dustin Stephens5.12cMaliceFA: Kipp Trummel5.12cThe Dainty ButterflyFA: Troy Davison in 20115.12cABRFA: Unknown in 20125.12dGene WilderFA: Equipped by Dustin Stephens, FA by Adam Taylor 20125.12dDeath by ChocolateFA: Kevin Wilkinson 20125.13aFatfaceFA: Kyle Fisher, 20125.13aCat's DemiseFA: Dave Hume5.13bCharlieFA: Steve McClure, Mike Doyle, Daniel DuLac, Sonnie Trotter in 2007 on preplaced gear.5.13bDivine Punishment5.13bMoltenFA: Kevin Wilkinson - 20125.13bButtercupFA: Kevin Wilkinson in 20125.13cEternal Fire5.13cLoverfaceFA: Kyle Fisher, 20135.13cSilky Smooth5.13cAtomic FireballsFA: Adam Taylor, 20135.13dButterface5.14Golden TicketFA: Adam Taylor5.14+Pure ImaginationFA: Jonathan Siegrist5.14cEasy PickinsFA: Dustin Stephens, Scott Curran, Daniel Hermanns5.8FickelgruberFA: Don McGlone, Greg Humburg5.8Old School ChocolateFA: Blake Bowling, Steve Kauffman in 19985.8Augustus GloopFA: Jeff Neal, Russ Jackson, Rick Estes 20095.9Chocolate RiverFA: Sam Cervantes, David Strawser June 20095.9Grandpa JoeFA: Josephine Neff in 20135.9MehFA: Christian LeBlanc, Karen Clark, 20095.9+Sugar RushFA: Jeff Neal, Russ Jackson (200(5.9+Perfect PuzzleV2

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