Kentucky · Rock climbing · Zoe

Sanitarium

Sanitarium in Kentucky has 22 climbing routes across 16 grades, offering sport and trad options.

22 routes
5.6 – 5.12c
Sport · Trad

Is Sanitarium open right now?

Closure in the area

There's a closure order in Daniel Boone National Forest. It doesn't name Sanitarium, so check the source for the area it covers (2 listed).

As of · Source: USFS · Daniel Boone National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Sanitarium

Best months: August–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    42° / 24°

    13 wet

  2. Feb

    47° / 27°

    13 wet

  3. Mar

    57° / 34°

    15 wet

  4. Apr

    68° / 44°

    15 wet

  5. May

    75° / 53°

    15 wet

  6. Jun

    82° / 61°

    14 wet

  7. Jul

    84° / 65°

    14 wet

  8. Aug

    84° / 64°

    12 wet

  9. Sep

    79° / 57°

    10 wet

  10. Oct

    69° / 44°

    12 wet

  11. Nov

    57° / 35°

    12 wet

  12. Dec

    46° / 28°

    13 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Beattyville 4n, KY, 2.3 mi away at 1,080 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Sanitarium is a climbing area in Kentucky's Daniel Boone National Forest, within the Cumberland Ranger District. It sits among several other named climbing areas, with The Nursery, The Playpen and The Portal each about 0.1 mile away, making it easy to link a few spots in one outing. The climbing here leans toward sport routes, with 21 of the 22 routes falling into that category and only one, Beaver Patrol, a trad climb. The grade range spans from 5.6 to 5.12c, with the median at 5.10d. Some of the more notable routes include Road to Debauchery at 5.10c, The Juggler at 5.11b and Forty Years of Justice at 5.12c. For timing, late spring and early fall tend to be the most comfortable. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Beattyville show highs around 75°F in May and 79°F in September, with October highs near 69°F. Within about 10 miles are the Sheltowee Trace high water route and the Happy Top Walking Trial, both hikes, as well as Lago Linda Hideaway campground and the paddling on the Middle Fork Red River.

Routes (22)

ChoppedFA: Ian Kirk, AJ ODonnel5.10aShort ListFA: Ian Kirk, Erik Kloeker5.10bBaileyFA: Chris Kirk, Ian Kirk5.10cRoad to DebaucheryFA: Ian Kirk5.10cChossfitFA: Ian Kirk, Erik Kloeker5.10dStingFA: David Louderback, Ian Kirk5.10dThe Upside DownFA: Erik Kloeker, 20175.11Humpty DumptyFA: Erik Kloeker, Ian Kirk5.11aVictory SipFA: Ian Kirk 20165.11aThe JugglerFA: Ian Kirk, Erik Kloeker5.11bUrushiolFA: Erik Kloeker, Ian Kirk in 20165.11bBarnumFA: Ralph Woolard, Ian Kirk5.11cKircus ActFA: Ian Kirk, Peter Jones5.11dBreak OutFA: Ian Kirk5.12aClown PatrolFA: Ian Kirk5.12aHot Wet NoodlesFA: Erik Kloeker, 20155.12bForty Years of JusticeFA: Blake Bowling, Ian Kirk5.12cBeaver PatrolFA: Patrick Miller, Bob Bartlett5.6Master of Puppets5.6Stick in the EyeFA: Patrick Miller, Bob Bartlett5.7Nursery Time (aka Battery)FA: Patrick Miller, Victory Knight (2014)5.9-Path of VirtueFA: Ian Kirk, Kristina Noreikis in 20165.9+

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