Kentucky · Rock climbing · Beattyville

Purgatory

Purgatory in Kentucky has 14 climbing routes across 10 grades, offering sport and trad options.

PurgatoryPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)
14 routes
5.4 – 5.14c
Sport · Trad

Is Purgatory open right now?

Closure in the area

There's a closure order in Daniel Boone National Forest. It doesn't name Purgatory, so check the source for the area it covers (2 listed).

As of · Source: USFS · Daniel Boone National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Purgatory

Best months: August–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    42° / 24°

    13 wet

  2. Feb

    47° / 27°

    13 wet

  3. Mar

    57° / 34°

    15 wet

  4. Apr

    68° / 44°

    15 wet

  5. May

    75° / 53°

    15 wet

  6. Jun

    82° / 61°

    14 wet

  7. Jul

    84° / 65°

    14 wet

  8. Aug

    84° / 64°

    12 wet

  9. Sep

    79° / 57°

    10 wet

  10. Oct

    69° / 44°

    12 wet

  11. Nov

    57° / 35°

    12 wet

  12. Dec

    46° / 28°

    13 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Beattyville 4n, KY, 1.4 mi away at 1,080 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Purgatory is a climbing area in Kentucky, set within the Cumberland Ranger District of Daniel Boone National Forest and the Ashland Wildlife Management Area. The land is managed by State Fish and Wildlife, and the area sits among several other climbing spots, including North 40 and Bronaugh Wall, both about 0.1 mile away. The climbing here is a mix of sport and trad routes, with 11 sport routes and 3 trad routes among the 14 listed. Grades run from 5.4 up to 5.14c, with the hardest route, Lucifer, at 5.14c. Sport climbers will find Gluttony at 5.12a and Paradise Lost at 5.13a, while Fat Man's Misery, a trad route at 5.4, is the easiest. For timing, late spring and early fall are the most comfortable. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Beattyville show May highs around 75°F and September highs around 79°F, with October cooling to about 69°F. Nearby, The Shire is another climbing area about 0.2 mile away. The Sheltowee Trace high water route is a hike roughly 2.9 miles off, and Lago Linda Hideaway offers camping about 4.5 miles away. Paddlers can reach the Middle Fork Red River, about 9.2 miles from the area.

Routes (14)

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive

North 40Photo: MarkDoliner, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

North 40

~0 min drive

North 40 in Kentucky has 6 routes across 5 grades, offering sport and trad climbing.

The ShirePhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

The Shire

~0 min drive

Shire is a Kentucky climbing crag with 13 routes across 12 grades, offering bouldering pads, sport, and trad.

Courtesy WallPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Courtesy Wall

~0 min drive

6 sport climbing routes at Courtesy Wall in Kentucky.

Chocolate FactoryPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Chocolate Factory

~1 min drive

Chocolate Factory in Kentucky has 86 climbing routes.

(3) GMC WallPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

(3) GMC Wall

~1 min drive

(3) GMC Wall is a climbing area in Kentucky with 8 routes.

(1) Buckeye ButtressPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

(1) Buckeye Buttress

~1 min drive

Buckeye Buttress in Kentucky has 14 climbing routes across 9 grades.

The Bear's DenPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

The Bear's Den

~1 min drive

Bear's Den, The in Kentucky has 36 climbing routes on 17 difficulty grades.

A-Hole WallPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

A-Hole Wall

~1 min drive

A-Hole Wall in Kentucky has 9 sport climbing routes across 6 grades.

B-Hole WallPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

B-Hole Wall

~1 min drive

B-Hole Wall in Kentucky has 9 climbing routes across 8 grades, offering sport and trad options.

The UnlodePhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

The Unlode

~1 min drive

Unlode, The in Kentucky has 10 sport climbing routes across 5 grades.