Kentucky · Rock climbing · Frenchburg

Purple Valley

Purple Valley in Kentucky has 19 climbing routes across 11 grades, offering mixed, sport, and trad styles.

19 routes
5.6 – 5.11c
Trad · Sport · Mixed

Is Purple Valley open right now?

Closure in the area

There's a closure order in Daniel Boone National Forest. It doesn't name Purple Valley, so check the source for the area it covers (2 listed).

As of · Source: USFS · Daniel Boone National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Purple Valley

Best months: June and August–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    42° / 23°

    13 wet

  2. Feb

    47° / 26°

    13 wet

  3. Mar

    56° / 33°

    14 wet

  4. Apr

    67° / 42°

    13 wet

  5. May

    75° / 52°

    13 wet

  6. Jun

    82° / 60°

    12 wet

  7. Jul

    84° / 64°

    13 wet

  8. Aug

    83° / 63°

    11 wet

  9. Sep

    79° / 56°

    9 wet

  10. Oct

    69° / 43°

    11 wet

  11. Nov

    57° / 34°

    11 wet

  12. Dec

    46° / 28°

    13 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Stanton 2w, KY, 14.4 mi away at 720 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Purple Valley is a climbing area in the Cumberland Ranger District of Daniel Boone National Forest in Kentucky, managed by the Forest Service. The surrounding district is a compact cluster of climbing spots, with Indian Creek, Lost Ridge and Board Wall all about half a mile away. The area offers a range of routes, 19 in all, with styles from trad to sport and a few mixed. The YDS grades run from 5.6 to 5.11c, and the median is 5.10a. Some of the named climbs include Big Crack at 5.6, Hot Licks and Rhetoric at 5.8 and The Love Shack at 5.11c, the hardest listed here. For a change of pace, the Powder Mill Branch Trail is about 3 miles off, and Indian Creek Camping Area is a little farther. Paddlers can head to the Middle Fork Red River, roughly 8.5 miles away.

Routes (19)

Captain One EyeFA: M. Williams, C. Tabor, 19905.10aSocial ButterflyFA: Steve McFarland, Tony Tramontin, 19945.10a5.11 Jimmy and Spike Go Craggin'FA: Martin Hackworth, Jimmy Guignard, 19895.10bA Way of LifeFA: Charles Tabor, Mark Williams5.10bCome In Your LycraFA: Gus Glitch, Alveno Ponns (1990)5.10bCoffee TalkFA: Devin Pantess, Ray Pantess - 19915.10cPleasant SurpriseFA: Jim Link, 19885.11aDelusions of GrandeurFA: Mark Williams 19905.11bElectric CowboyFA: John Bronaugh, Stacy Temple, 19925.11bBurden of DreamsFA: Martin Hackworth and Larry Day5.11cThe Love ShackFA: Tim Powers 19915.11cBig Crack5.6It Ain't Easy Bein SqueezyFA: Scott Curran, Alex Mitchell5.6Flaring Crack5.7Hot Licks and RhetoricFA: M Hackworth, T. Andriakos, R. Martin, 19865.8Into the Purple ValleyFA: Martin Hackworth, Bill Wade, 19875.8GruntFA: M. Hackworth, B. Wade, 19865.8-Pebbly Poo5.9Shish-kebabFA: John Bronaugh, Jeff Ashley5.9

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive

Long WallPhoto: US Forest Service - Southern Region, Public Domain Mark (via Flickr)

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Tarr RidgePhoto: US Forest Service - Southern Region, Public Domain Mark (via Flickr)

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Haystack RockPhoto: pmuellr, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)

Haystack Rock

~9 min drive

Haystack Rock is a Kentucky climbing crag with 6 routes.

Indian Creek

~1 min drive

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Lost Ridge

~1 min drive

Lost Ridge in Kentucky has 6 trad climbing routes with 6 distinct difficulty grades.

Board Wall

~1 min drive

Board Wall in Kentucky has 7 traditional climbing routes across 4 grades.

Lumpy Wall

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Backside

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