Kentucky · Rock climbing · Beattyville

Monastery

Monastery in Kentucky has 37 climbing routes across 18 grades.

37 routes
5.7 – 5.12d
Sport · Trad · Bouldering

Is Monastery open right now?

Closure in the area

There's a closure order in Daniel Boone National Forest. It doesn't name Monastery, so check the source for the area it covers (2 listed).

As of · Source: USFS · Daniel Boone National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Monastery

Best months: August–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    42° / 24°

    13 wet

  2. Feb

    47° / 27°

    13 wet

  3. Mar

    57° / 34°

    15 wet

  4. Apr

    68° / 44°

    15 wet

  5. May

    75° / 53°

    15 wet

  6. Jun

    82° / 61°

    14 wet

  7. Jul

    84° / 65°

    14 wet

  8. Aug

    84° / 64°

    12 wet

  9. Sep

    79° / 57°

    10 wet

  10. Oct

    69° / 44°

    12 wet

  11. Nov

    57° / 35°

    12 wet

  12. Dec

    46° / 28°

    13 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Beattyville 4n, KY, 2.3 mi away at 1,080 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Monastery is a climbing area in Kentucky's Daniel Boone National Forest, within the Cumberland Ranger District. It sits among several other climbing spots, with Secret Garden about 0.1 mile away and The Hal Garner Memorial Crag and Serenity Point each about 0.2 mile off. That makes it easy to pair with those neighbors on a single visit. The area has 37 routes, with sport climbing the most common style. Grades run from 5.7 up to 5.12d, and the hardest route listed is Repent for Your Sends, a 5.12d sport climb. Trad routes include Expiation at 5.7 and Lucifer's Unicycle at 5.10d. There is also one boulder problem, which is graded V0. For timing, fall is the most comfortable season. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Beattyville show October highs around 69°F with lows near 44°F, and September and October see the fewest wet days of the year. Winter is cold, with January highs around 42°F. Beyond the climbing, the Sheltowee Trace high water route is about 4.7 miles away, and Lago Linda Hideaway campground is about 5.7 miles off.

Routes (37)

Whipping BoyFA: Dustin Stephens, Lena Bakanova (2014)5.10+Adrenergic Half-LifeFA: Dan Spaulding, Jeff Castro5.10aIdle HandsFA: Jeff Castro and Blake Dehler5.10bNarcissusFA: Jeff Castro, Art Cammers5.10bPickled Pig's FeetFA: Jeff Neal5.10bSugar PadFA: Sam Gilbert, Jeff Neal5.10bTheloniusFA: Jac Frech, Nathan Ross5.10bTwist your Hip and do the DipFA: Brittany Renfro Gilbert and Jeff Neal5.10bGoldmundFA: Jeff Castro and Art Cammers, 20145.10dLucifer's UnicycleFA: Art Cammers, Jeff Castro5.10dMonks BrewFA: Sam Lightner, Jr.5.10dSNUG5.10dINDY Project5.11Barking DogmasFA: Blake Bowling - 20135.11+TATSFA: Jac Frech5.11aArete SyndromeFA: Jeff Neal, Sam Gilbert5.11bLounge LizardFA: Jeff Neal5.11bMonk in the MiddleFA: Jeff Neal, Theresa Neal5.11bFatal FunnelFA: Rob McFall5.11cMission CreepFA: Rob McFall5.11cIn the Shadow of the SummerFA: Xach July 2018 (Equipped by Brian Bradley)5.12Inappropriately HardFA: Jeff Castro, 20215.12aPrajnaFA: John Flunker5.12bThe ShamanFA: Blake Bowling5.12bThe SufferingFA: Blake Bowling - 20135.12bVagabondFA: Rob McFall5.12bBulletproof MonkFA: Scott Curran5.12cLittle BohemianFA: Rob McFall5.12cNomadFA: Rob McFall5.12cThe Middle PathFA: Blake Bowling - 20135.12cRepent for Your SendsFA: Blake Bowling, 20135.12dExpiationFA: Jeff Castro, Kenneth Johns5.7The CoreFA: Jac Frech, Nathan Ross5.8+The HereticFA: Blake Bowling5.8+ConfessionalFA: Josh Landis, Jac Frech5.9+Full ThicknessFA: Jeff Neal, Rick Estes, Blake Bowling5.9+Vidal-Bost Memorial ArêteFA: Dustin Stephens (2016)V0

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive

The Bear's DenPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

The Bear's Den

~3 min drive

Bear's Den, The in Kentucky has 36 climbing routes on 17 difficulty grades.

A-Hole WallPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

A-Hole Wall

~3 min drive

A-Hole Wall in Kentucky has 9 sport climbing routes across 6 grades.

B-Hole WallPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

B-Hole Wall

~3 min drive

B-Hole Wall in Kentucky has 9 climbing routes across 8 grades, offering sport and trad options.

(3) GMC WallPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

(3) GMC Wall

~3 min drive

(3) GMC Wall is a climbing area in Kentucky with 8 routes.

North 40Photo: MarkDoliner, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

North 40

~3 min drive

North 40 in Kentucky has 6 routes across 5 grades, offering sport and trad climbing.

South ParkPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

South Park

~3 min drive

South Park in Kentucky has 19 sport climbing routes with 15 difficulty grades.

The UnlodePhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

The Unlode

~3 min drive

Unlode, The in Kentucky has 10 sport climbing routes across 5 grades.

(1) Buckeye ButtressPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

(1) Buckeye Buttress

~3 min drive

Buckeye Buttress in Kentucky has 14 climbing routes across 9 grades.

The ShirePhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

The Shire

~3 min drive

Shire is a Kentucky climbing crag with 13 routes across 12 grades, offering bouldering pads, sport, and trad.

The UnHoley WallPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

The UnHoley Wall

~3 min drive

10 sport climbing routes at UnHoley Wall in Kentucky, ranging across 9 difficulty grades.