Kentucky · Rock climbing · Beattyville

Chaos

Chaos in Kentucky has 19 climbing routes across 14 grades, offering sport and trad styles.

19 routes
5.5 – 5.12d
Sport · Trad

Is Chaos open right now?

Closure in the area

There's a closure order in Daniel Boone National Forest. It doesn't name Chaos, so check the source for the area it covers (2 listed).

As of · Source: USFS · Daniel Boone National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Chaos

Best months: August–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    42° / 24°

    13 wet

  2. Feb

    47° / 27°

    13 wet

  3. Mar

    57° / 34°

    15 wet

  4. Apr

    68° / 44°

    15 wet

  5. May

    75° / 53°

    15 wet

  6. Jun

    82° / 61°

    14 wet

  7. Jul

    84° / 65°

    14 wet

  8. Aug

    84° / 64°

    12 wet

  9. Sep

    79° / 57°

    10 wet

  10. Oct

    69° / 44°

    12 wet

  11. Nov

    57° / 35°

    12 wet

  12. Dec

    46° / 28°

    13 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Beattyville 4n, KY, 2 mi away at 1,080 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Chaos is a climbing area in the Cumberland Ranger District of Daniel Boone National Forest in Kentucky, about 10 miles from the town of Beattyville. It sits among several other climbing areas, including Serenity Point, Alcatraz and Coopers Cove, all within about a tenth of a mile. Spring and fall are the most comfortable times to visit. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Beattyville show May highs around 75°F and October highs near 69°F, while July and August average about 84°F. For a change from climbing, the Sheltowee Trace high water route is about 4.5 miles away, and the Happy Top Walking Trial is about 5 miles off. Lago Linda Hideaway campground lies about 5.5 miles away, and Miguel's Campsite is roughly 10 miles out.

Routes (19)

SlabaliciousFA: Russ Jackson 20145.10Lithuanian PrincessFA: Kristina Noreikis, Ian Kirk5.10aTeacher's PetFA: Kipp Trummel5.10bDie with a BlessingFA: Ian Kirk5.10dSpider MonkeyFA: Kipp Trummel5.11bLeft Coast5.11cMary AnneFA: Tania Allen, Kipp Trummel 20145.11cMike MulliganFA: Ray Ellington, Kipp Trummel (2014)5.11cShe Rolls Gangster StyleFA: Ray Ellington, Kipp Trummel - 20145.12bSwamp GatorFA: Kipp Trummel5.12bSwitch5.12b9-VoltFA: Kipp Trummel5.12cResistor5.12c/dElectric DongFA: Frank Byron, Ray Ellington5.12dLive with a CurseFA: Ray Ellington, Kipp Trummel5.12dKing DuckyFA: Alex Noreikis, Ian Kirk5.5Some Assembly RequiredFA: Kipp Trummel, Russ Jackson5.6Dyslexics Untie!FA: Steve Simpson, Alan Prechtel5.7Broken DreamsFA: Russ Jackson5.8

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