Kentucky · Rock climbing · Beattyville

Alcatraz

Alcatraz in Kentucky has 14 sport climbing routes across 7 difficulty grades.

14 routes
5.9+ – 5.12c
Sport

Is Alcatraz open right now?

Closure in the area

There's a closure order in Daniel Boone National Forest. It doesn't name Alcatraz, so check the source for the area it covers (2 listed).

As of · Source: USFS · Daniel Boone National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Alcatraz

Best months: August–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    42° / 24°

    13 wet

  2. Feb

    47° / 27°

    13 wet

  3. Mar

    57° / 34°

    15 wet

  4. Apr

    68° / 44°

    15 wet

  5. May

    75° / 53°

    15 wet

  6. Jun

    82° / 61°

    14 wet

  7. Jul

    84° / 65°

    14 wet

  8. Aug

    84° / 64°

    12 wet

  9. Sep

    79° / 57°

    10 wet

  10. Oct

    69° / 44°

    12 wet

  11. Nov

    57° / 35°

    12 wet

  12. Dec

    46° / 28°

    13 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Beattyville 4n, KY, 2 mi away at 1,080 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Alcatraz is a sport climbing area in the Cumberland Ranger District of Daniel Boone National Forest in Kentucky, about 2 miles from the town of Beattyville. It sits among several other climbing spots, with Chaos, Coopers Cove and Serenity Point all about 0.1 mile away. The area holds 14 sport routes, with grades ranging from 5.9+ up to 5.12c. The median grade is 5.11c. Among the routes are Traumatized Turtle (5.9+), Sweet Petunia (5.10d) and Flight Risk (5.12a). Most of the routes were first ascended between 2014 and 2016. September is the most comfortable month, with typical highs around 79°F and lows near 57°F, and fewer wet days than spring. Typical averages from a nearby weather station run from highs around 42°F in January to about 84°F in July and August. The station sits at nearly the same elevation as the climbing area. Within a few miles you'll find the Sheltowee Trace high water route and Happy Top Walking Trial for hiking, Lago Linda Hideaway for camping, and the Middle Fork Red River for paddling.

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