Idaho · Rock climbing · American Falls

The Head Wall

The Head Wall in Idaho offers 21 sport climbing routes ranging across 8 difficulty grades.

21 routes
5.8 – 5.11+
Sport

Best time to visit The Head Wall

Best months: April–June and September–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    35° / 17°

    10 wet

  2. Feb

    39° / 21°

    9 wet

  3. Mar

    51° / 27°

    9 wet

  4. Apr

    59° / 33°

    10 wet

  5. May

    68° / 39°

    10 wet

  6. Jun

    78° / 46°

    7 wet

  7. Jul

    89° / 53°

    5 wet

  8. Aug

    88° / 52°

    6 wet

  9. Sep

    77° / 43°

    6 wet

  10. Oct

    62° / 34°

    7 wet

  11. Nov

    47° / 24°

    9 wet

  12. Dec

    35° / 18°

    10 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Massacre Rocks Sp, ID, 5.2 mi away at 4,195 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

The Head Wall is a climbing area in Idaho managed by the State Department of Land. It sits among several other climbing spots, with JR's Place, Juniper Wall and Send Town all about 0.1 mile away. For comfortable weather, aim for late spring or early fall. Typical averages from a nearby weather station at Massacre Rocks State Park show May highs around 68°F and September highs around 77°F, while July and August average in the upper 80s. The closest trails are the River Trail and Pohogwe Trail, both about 5 miles away. Pipeline Campground, roughly 9 miles off, offers a place to stay.

Routes (21)

AvalancheFA: Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle5.10Coffin NailsFA: Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle5.10Rock HeadFA: Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle5.10Run the GauntletFA: Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle5.10Seismic EventFA: Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle5.10Black MagicFA: Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle5.10-Block PartyFA: Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle5.10-A Stone’s Throw AwayFA: Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle5.10+Chain SmokerFA: Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle; FA: Terran Engle5.10+Head StoneFA: Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle5.10+Miss TrixieFA: Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle5.10+Sole SacrificeFA: Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle5.10+DOPAPODFA: Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle5.11BlackoutFA: Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle5.11-Burly GirlFA: Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle; FA: Terran Engle5.11-Demon MonkeyFA: Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle5.11-Upside DownFA: Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle; 20205.11-Rock JunkiesFA: Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle5.11+Ramble OnFA: Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle; 20205.8Déjà VuFA: Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle; FA by Supe Vitali; 20175.9DuneFA: Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle5.9