Colorado · Rock climbing · Eldorado Springs

West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

34-route climbing area in Colorado with mixed, sport, and trad options.

34 routes
5.6 – 5.12b
Trad · Mixed · Sport

Best time to visit West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

Best months: May–September. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    39° / 17°

    5 wet

  2. Feb

    40° / 17°

    5 wet

  3. Mar

    47° / 22°

    6 wet

  4. Apr

    52° / 27°

    8 wet

  5. May

    61° / 35°

    10 wet

  6. Jun

    73° / 44°

    9 wet

  7. Jul

    79° / 50°

    10 wet

  8. Aug

    77° / 48°

    11 wet

  9. Sep

    70° / 41°

    8 wet

  10. Oct

    57° / 31°

    6 wet

  11. Nov

    47° / 24°

    5 wet

  12. Dec

    40° / 17°

    5 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Gross Rsvr, CO, 3.3 mi away at 7,970 ft. The station sits about 1,100 ft higher than this place, so expect it a little warmer here. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu is a climbing area in Eldorado Canyon State Park in Colorado, managed by State Fish and Wildlife. It sits among a cluster of climbing routes and trails, with several other climbing areas and access paths within a short distance. Summer is the most comfortable time to visit. Typical averages from a nearby weather station show July highs around 79°F with lows near 50°F, while winter highs stay in the low 40s. That station sits about 1,100 feet below the park, so temperatures on the ridge run cooler. The West Face Redgarden Climbing Access Trail and the West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express climbing area are both about 0.1 mile away. The Rincon - Center Route & R is also close by. For an overnight stay, Winiger Ridge campground is about 4.5 miles off.

Routes (34)

As We Liked ItFA: P. Ament & G. Ringsby, 19805.10Between the CracksFA: Wayne Crill and Brad Durbin, 20095.10+BlackoutFA: J. and R. Rossiter, 19865.10aChock SueyFA: R. & J. [Rossiter], 19835.10aChockstoneFA: George Hurley, Bob Culp, 1966.5.10aFade To BlackFA: Variation on existing routes5.10aFading LightFA: Dan Hare and Alan Bradley, 19795.10aFriends in High PlacesFA: Bruce Hildenbrand and Robert Mueller, 19865.10aBorn Under PunchesFA: J. Schiavone & D. Grandusky, 19815.10a/bAndroid TiltFA: Mike Brooks & partner, 1980s5.10bLaughing at the MoonFA: Richard and Joyce Rossiter5.10bWhiplash5.10bSuperstoneFA: Joyce and Richard Rossiter, 19865.11Joke Crack to SuperstoneFA: Sharpe & Coyne, Rossiters5.11aMuscular Dystrophy5.11aPrince of DarknessFA: Chris Archer, Stephan DeWet, Cris Ann Crylsdale, 1988.5.11aRed HouseFA: Andy Donson and Steve Levin5.11bCornerstoneFA: Peter Hunt TR 1986; Mark Tarrant self-belay(!) 1986.5.11cJerichoFA: Chris Reveley and George Hurley5.11cMinistry of FearFA: Alec Sharp, Matt Lavender, 19815.11dTilt RightFA: FFA: Donahue/Helmuth, 2000s5.11dA Cut AboveFA: Charlie Fowler or Matt Lavender (retrobolted: P. Ament & C Griffith)5.12aModern DefenseFA: Chris Weidner, May 1, 20145.12bIce NineFA: Carl Harrison, solo, 19815.6Knight's MoveFA: George Hurley, Bob Culp, 19665.7S&MFA: Carl Harrison, Scott Kimball, 1981.5.7SpeakeasyFA: Brooks, Stuberg and Harrison 19815.7Tales of UlyssesFA: Dave Bohn, Ken Duncan5.7Sylvia's BushFA: Paula Crenshaw, Pat Ament ,19755.8Bushwhack CrackFA: C. Reveley & J. Serles, 19745.8+Purple HazeFA: Dan Hare and Jim Michael, 19755.9Sirens of TitanFA: Rob Candelaria and Pat Ament5.9JeepFA: Mike Brooks, Lynn Smith5.9+The BatFA: Kyle Lefkoff & Leigh "Manuel" McGinley, 19875.9+

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