Arizona · Rock climbing · Oak Creek Canyon · Near Kachina Village

Ultimates West

Ultimates WestPhoto: inkknife_2000 (7.5 million views +), CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)
28 routes
5.8 – 5.13b
Trad · Sport
May–Jul, Sep
best months

Is Ultimates West open right now?

Closure in the area

There's a closure order in Coconino National Forest. It doesn't name Ultimates West, so check the source for the area it covers.

As of · Source: USFS · Coconino National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Ultimates West is a climbing area in the Flagstaff Ranger District of Coconino National Forest in Arizona, managed by the Forest Service. It sits about 0.1 mile from Ultimates East, its neighbor, and is part of the same cluster of climbing spots in the Oak Creek Canyon area. The area has 28 routes, with 19 in trad and 9 in sport. The YDS grades run from 5.8 up to 5.13-, with the median at 5.11. Among the routes are Lil' Smokie's First Crush (5.8, trad), After the Gold Rush (5.11, trad) and Metal Detector (5.11+, sport). For timing, late spring and early fall are the most comfortable. Typical averages from a nearby weather station at Mund's Park show May highs around 69°F and October highs around 66°F, while July and August bring the most wet days. Other nearby spots include the Oak Creek Canyon Overlook climbing area, the Scott Springs #44 hike and the Pine Flat Campground West campground, all within about 2 miles.

Around this trail

Add any of these when you start a trip
  • Sleep close

    Pumphouse Wash (FR 237) Dispersed Camping Area

    Campground

    Campground · 1.5 mi from the trail
  • If it rains

    Mess Hall

    Museum

    Museum · 7.4 mi from Kachina Village

Places © OpenStreetMap contributors

More in Kachina Village
  • Best time to go · May–Jul, Sep

    Best time to visit Ultimates West

    Best months: May–July and September. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      46° / 17°

      7 wet

    2. Feb

      47° / 19°

      7 wet

    3. Mar

      53° / 23°

      7 wet

    4. Apr

      60° / 27°

      4 wet

    5. May

      69° / 34°

      3 wet

    6. Jun

      79° / 40°

      3 wet

    7. Jul

      83° / 49°

      9 wet

    8. Aug

      81° / 50°

      13 wet

    9. Sep

      76° / 41°

      8 wet

    10. Oct

      66° / 31°

      5 wet

    11. Nov

      54° / 22°

      5 wet

    12. Dec

      46° / 16°

      7 wet

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Mund'S Park, AZ, 8.1 mi away at 6,470 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Routes (28)

The CrustifarianFA: 20205.10+Ultimate Fist Crack5.10+Ultimate TraverseFA: Zach Harrison, Chris Kalman5.10+After the Gold RushFA: Trevor Bowman and Zach Harrison 11/6/205.11Shut Out the WorldFA: 20205.11The UltimatumFA: P. Kingsbury, I. Sosa, Wookie; June 2019; P2 Bob Pettit; whole rig linked: Tyler Mattix July 195.11Ultimate Finger CrackFA: Tim Coats, Jim Haisley, John Mattson, 19855.11You'll Never Be a Blacksmith With Flippers Like ThoseFA: Zach Harrison, Chris Kalman 20205.11White WeddingFA: Steve Grossman, Paul Davidson, June 21st 19825.11-Metal DetectorFA: Z. Harrison, B. McCord5.11+Ultimate Bag Of Tricks5.11+The Ultimate Dirty SanchezFA: Jon Koehn and Will Cobb5.11aUltimareteFA: Damon Vaughan, Chris Kalman5.11dTwist of FateFA: C. Thornley, 1996. FFA: D.Mabe, 20125.12Cry Havoc5.12-Lil' Smokie's First TokeFA: B. McCord, J. Unema5.12-Pink CloudFA: Trevor Bowman and Zach Harrison 10/24/205.12-Lil' SlopieFA: McCord, Unema5.12+Lil' Smokie's Wild RideFA: McCord, Harrison5.12bThe Lizard Howler Break DanceFA: Chris Kalman, Damon Vaughan5.12dLil' Smokie Shoots for the MoonFA: McCord, Unema5.13-Lil' Smokie Goes All The WayFA: B. McCord, J. Unema5.13bLil' Smokie's First CrushFA: FFA: Giselle Field, Idaliza Sosa5.8Brown NosingFA: R. Brown, D. Mabe & Rusty???5.9Sandy Lou WhoFA: Sosa, Kingsbury 20205.9Ultimate Lube Job5.9Young GunsFA: D.Mabe, R.Brown, and K.Kent5.9Pumphouse PrimerFA: D.Mabe, J.Mosher, R.Brown5.9+

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive

Ultimates EastPhoto: inkknife_2000 (7.5 million views +), CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Ultimates East

Next door

Ultimates East in Arizona has 27 climbing routes across 17 difficulty grades.

Oak Creek Canyon OverlookPhoto: InSapphoWeTrust from Los Angeles, California, USA, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Oak Creek Canyon Overlook

Next door

Oak Creek Canyon Overlook in Arizona has 5 routes with sport and trad climbing.

The OverlookPhoto: InSapphoWeTrust from Los Angeles, California, USA, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

The Overlook

~2 min drive

Overlook, The is a climbing area in Arizona with 80 routes.

Lower Pumphouse WashPhoto: USDAgov, Public Domain Mark (via Flickr)

Lower Pumphouse Wash

~2 min drive

Lower Pumphouse Wash in Arizona has 21 climbing routes across 13 grades, offering mixed, sport, and trad styles.

Switchbacks OverlookPhoto: Coconino National Forest, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Switchbacks Overlook

~2 min drive

6 traditional climbing routes in Arizona at Switchbacks Overlook.

James CanyonPhoto: inkknife_2000 (7.5 million views +), CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

James Canyon

~2 min drive

James Canyon in Arizona has 5 sport climbing routes on 4 difficulty grades.

Red Kelly WallPhoto: Don Graham from Redlands, CA, USA - God bless it!, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Red Kelly Wall

~4 min drive

Red Kelly Wall is a bouldering crag in Arizona with 5 routes.

West Kelly CanyonPhoto: inkknife_2000 (7.5 million views +), CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

West Kelly Canyon

~4 min drive

West Kelly Canyon in Arizona has 10 bouldering routes across 8 difficulty grades.

Gym WallPhoto: inkknife_2000 (7.5 million views +), CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Gym Wall

~4 min drive

Gym Wall in Arizona has 5 bouldering routes across 4 difficulty grades.

Blue Marble WallPhoto: Don Graham from Redlands, CA, USA - God bless it!, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Blue Marble Wall

~4 min drive

Blue Marble Wall is a 5-route bouldering area in Arizona with routes at 5 distinct difficulty grades.