Utopia
Utopia in Utah has 7 mixed climbing routes ranging from 5.9 to 5.12a.
Photo: Greg Gebhardt, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)- 7 routes
- 5.6 – 5.10+
- Trad · Mixed · Sport
Best time to visit Utopia
Best months: March–May and October–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.
Jan
44° / 21°
6 wet · 1 snow
Feb
52° / 27°
6 wet · 1 snow
Mar
65° / 36°
6 wet
Apr
72° / 43°
5 wet
May
83° / 51°
5 wet
Jun
94° / 59°
3 wet
Jul
99° / 66°
5 wet
Aug
96° / 64°
6 wet
Sep
88° / 55°
6 wet
Oct
74° / 42°
5 wet
Nov
57° / 30°
5 wet
Dec
44° / 22°
5 wet · 2 snow
Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Moab, UT, 5.7 mi away at 4,053 ft. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.
Utopia is a climbing area in Utah's Moab Field Office of the Bureau of Land Management, about 0.3 miles from Upper Big Bend Campground. It sits among several other climbing spots, including The Punisher Boulder and Flat Top Boulder, each about half a mile away. The area has seven routes, with three trad routes and three mixed routes, and one sport route, Spear of Destiny, at 5.9. The grades range from 5.6 on Tjurunga to 5.10+ on Adam-Ondi-Ahman. The Notovitch Codex and Qebehsenuef are mixed climbs at 5.7 and 5.8+. Spring and fall are the most comfortable times to climb. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Moab show April highs around 72°F and October highs around 74°F, while July highs climb to about 99°F. Big Bend Group Sites and Oak Grove Campground are both within a mile, and the Windows Sand Loop and Grandstaff Canyon Trail are each about 3.3 miles away.
Routes (7)
Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive
Photo: Annette Teng, CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)The Punisher Boulder
~1 min drive
6 bouldering routes in Utah rated on 4 difficulty grades.
Photo: Annette Teng, CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)Chaos Boulder
~1 min drive
Chaos Boulder in Utah has 12 bouldering routes across 9 difficulty grades.
Photo: Kimaz2412, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)Big Bend Bouldering Area
~1 min drive
Big Bend Bouldering Area in Utah has 21 bouldering routes across 12 grades.
Photo: Greg Gebhardt, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)Block Top Boulder
~1 min drive
Block Top Boulder in Utah has 12 bouldering routes across 10 grades.
Photo: Kimaz2412, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)Army of Darkness Boulder
~1 min drive
7 bouldering routes at Army of Darkness Boulder in Utah.
Photo: Greg Gebhardt, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)Trail Boulder
~1 min drive
Trail Boulder in Utah has 5 bouldering routes on 4 difficulty grades.
Photo: Annette Teng, CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)The Wash Boulder
~1 min drive
Wash Boulder is a bouldering crag in Utah with 5 routes.
Photo: Ken Lund from Reno, Nevada, USA, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)Take-Out Beach
~1 min drive
Take-Out Beach in Utah has 1 sport climbing route rated from 5.11a to 5.11c.
Photo: Ken Lund from Reno, Nevada, USA, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)The Cinema
~2 min drive
Cinema, The is a Utah climbing area with 12 sport routes across 9 grades.
Photo: Ken Lund from Reno, Nevada, USA, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)The Theater
~2 min drive
Theater, The in Utah has 12 climbing routes with 9 difficulty grades.
