Utah · Rock climbing · Moab

Lower Mill Creek

Lower Mill Creek in Utah has 14 climbing routes across 9 grades, offering sport and trad styles.

Lower Mill CreekPhoto: Carter Pape, CC BY-SA 4.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)
14 routes
5.10 – 5.13a
Trad · Sport

Best time to visit Lower Mill Creek

Best months: March–May and September–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    39° / 18°

  2. Feb

    46° / 25°

  3. Mar

    58° / 33°

  4. Apr

    66° / 40°

  5. May

    77° / 50°

  6. Jun

    89° / 60°

  7. Jul

    95° / 68°

  8. Aug

    92° / 65°

  9. Sep

    83° / 56°

  10. Oct

    68° / 42°

  11. Nov

    52° / 30°

  12. Dec

    39° / 19°

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Castle Valley 1se, UT, 10.1 mi away at 4,905 ft. The station sits about 700 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Lower Mill Creek is a climbing area in Utah, about 4 miles from the town of Spanish Valley. It sits among a cluster of climbing spots, with Mill Creek and 50 Ways to Leave Your Lover both within about a mile and a half, and Ken's Lake a little farther out. The area is known for its trad routes, with a few sport options, and the climbing runs from about 5.10 up to 5.13a. Spring and fall are the most comfortable times to visit. Typical averages from a nearby weather station show May highs around 77°F and October highs around 68°F, while July averages a high of 95°F. The routes here are mostly trad, with 12 trad routes and two sport routes among the 14 listed. The Paper Crane is the sport route, a 5.13a that was first ascended by Joshua Janes with equipment by Mark Howe in 2004. The trad routes include Safari at 5.10, Fox Trot at 5.11+, and Axis of Evil at 5.12b/c.

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive

Mill CreekPhoto: Carter Pape, CC BY-SA 4.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Mill Creek

~2 min drive

Mill Creek in Utah has 8 climbing routes with 7 difficulty grades, offering mixed and sport styles.

50 Ways to Leave Your LoverPhoto: Carter Pape, CC BY-SA 4.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

50 Ways to Leave Your Lover

~2 min drive

50 Ways to Leave Your Lover is a Utah climbing area with 5 routes.

Ken's LakePhoto: Carter Pape, CC BY-SA 4.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Ken's Lake

~3 min drive

Ken's Lake in Utah has 3 climbing routes with sport and trad options.

Sand FlatsPhoto: Jacob Montgomery, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Sand Flats

~13 min drive

Sand Flats in Utah offers 9 traditional climbing routes across 8 difficulty grades.

Sunvana WallPhoto: Ken Lund, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

Sunvana Wall

~14 min drive

Sunvana Wall in Utah offers 6 mixed and sport climbing routes across 4 difficulty grades.

North ForkPhoto: Ken Lund, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

North Fork

~18 min drive

North Fork in Utah has 3 trad climbing routes.

Gauntlet WallPhoto: Ken Lund, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

Gauntlet Wall

~18 min drive

Gauntlet Wall in Utah has 6 routes across 6 grades, offering sport and trad climbing.

Ledge C BouldersPhoto: katsrcool, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Ledge C Boulders

~20 min drive

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Big BrainPhoto: katsrcool, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Big Brain

~21 min drive

Big Brain is a bouldering crag in Utah with 6 routes and 6 difficulty grades.

The Cirque of the ClimbablesPhoto: Sandy Horvath-Dori from Grand Junction, CO, USA, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

The Cirque of the Climbables

~21 min drive

Cirque of the Climbables in Utah has 6 routes with mixed and traditional climbing.