Utah · Rock climbing · Monticello

Cliffs of Insanity

69 trad routes at Cliffs of Insanity in Utah, spanning 19 difficulty grades.

69 routes
5.7 – 5.13
Trad

Best time to visit Cliffs of Insanity

Best months: March–May and September–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    42° / 17°

    4 wet · 2 snow

  2. Feb

    49° / 23°

    4 wet · 1 snow

  3. Mar

    59° / 30°

    5 wet · 1 snow

  4. Apr

    67° / 36°

    5 wet

  5. May

    77° / 46°

    4 wet

  6. Jun

    89° / 56°

    3 wet

  7. Jul

    95° / 63°

    5 wet

  8. Aug

    92° / 61°

    6 wet

  9. Sep

    84° / 51°

    5 wet

  10. Oct

    70° / 38°

    5 wet

  11. Nov

    55° / 26°

    4 wet · 1 snow

  12. Dec

    42° / 18°

    4 wet · 2 snow

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Canyonlands-The Needles, UT, 8.9 mi away at 4,906 ft. The station sits about 1,000 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Cliffs of Insanity is a climbing area on Bureau of Land Management land within the Monticello Field Office in Utah. The surrounding area is a cluster of climbing spots, with Sacred Cow Wall about a mile away and Beach and Original Meat Wall each roughly a mile off. Spring and fall are the most comfortable times to visit. Typical averages from a nearby weather station at Canyonlands-The Needles show May highs around 77°F and October highs around 70°F, while July averages about 95°F and January highs sit near 42°F. For an overnight stay, Superbowl Campground is about 1.3 miles away. Indian Creek, a canoeing spot, lies about 3.5 miles off.

Routes (69)

Brute SquadFA: Devin Fin5.10GilderFA: DF5.10Loony BinFA: K3 & Michelle Kelley5.10Nurse Rachet5.10O.C.D.FA: K3 & Adeline Guay5.10Prepare To Die5.10Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner)5.10VincinyFA: Devin Fin5.10Iocane PowderFA: DF5.10-Lightning Sand5.10-Mini CaveFA: cant say TOP SECRET5.10-Princess ButtercupFA: Devin Finucan, Kat Whipple5.10-R.O.U.SFA: devin fin5.10-The Fire Swamp5.10-To The PainFA: Sam Feuerborn & Jack Cramer5.10-Are There Rocks AheadFA: DF5.10+Barlage / LawlorFA: Brad Barlage, Kevin Lawlor5.10+Battle of WitsFA: “5.10+Dread Pirate Roberts5.10+The Dirty SpaniardFA: Roger Molina & Jessica Kilroy 11/2/20075.10+The Original Prepare to DieFA: Devin Fin and Brian VanSickle5.10+True LoveFA: Devin Fin, 095.10+Unknown (lower angle tight hand crack right of Wiggins)5.10+Unknown OW on far right5.10+Kelley Route 15.10cInigo MontoyaFA: Luke Lydard5.10dA Hug from AndreFA: Sean McLane and Levi Call, June 2019, FFA Levi Call5.11Hor D'oeuvres5.11I've Seen Worse5.11NutterFA: Tom Ramier, Steven Lucarelli (May, 2009)5.11Padded CellFA: K3, Dylan Warren5.11Prince HumperdinkyFA: Sam Feuerborn5.11Skip to the EndFA: Alex Garhart and Daniel Garman5.11Unknown (fists to off fists)5.11Andre The GiantFA: Karl & Michelle Kelley5.11-As you wishFA: Devin Fin5.11-Fairy DustFA: Kat Whipple5.11-Insane in the MembraneFA: Trevor Bowman, Pat Kingsbury, 20125.11-M.C.'s Hammer5.11-Memories of SethFA: Brad Barlage5.11-Offwidth Your HeadFA: Steven Lucarelli5.11-The Clean SpaniardFA: Jessica Kilroy and Roger Molina 11/4/20075.11-Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes)5.11-Wiggins IFA: Earl Wiggins5.11-Big hair hard DickFA: DF5.11+FezzikFA: Dan Hughes & Derek Bomholt5.11+Funny FarmFA: Steven Lucarelli, Carrie Finn (Oct. 2010)5.11+Inconceivable5.11+LobotomyFA: Paul Emrick, mid 90s5.11+OphidiophobiaFA: Sean McLane and Levi Call, June 2019, FFA Sean McLane5.11+Jumping the SharkFA: Karsten Duncan, Kris Lucic, Chick Holcamp5.11bStorming the CastleFA: 9/095.11dBroken Brain5.12Puzzle Factory5.12Queen of SlimeFA: Luke Stefurak 20195.12Man In BlackFA: Jonny Woodward & Scott Carson5.12-Wiggins IIFA: Leonard Coyne5.12-ClandestineFA: Sean McLane and Levi Call, June 20195.12+Pit of DespairFA: Jerome Smart5.12+Six Fingerd ManFA: devin fin5.12bStr8 JacketFA: Tom Ramier, Steven Lucarelli (May, 2009)5.12cThe Wind RiderFA: Will S5.13The Iron Lady TowerFA: Paul Ross Jeff Pheasent 5th March 20025.7Back to the BeginningFA: DF5.9Prepare for DisappointmentFA: Dan Garman5.9Unknown (easy hand crack right of Wiggins)5.9Use Your HeadFA: Sammo & The Blizza5.9Farm BoyFA: Alex Garhart and Dan Garman5.9+MawwageFA: Dan Hughes, Dolgio & Sam Feuerborn5.9+

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