Utah · Rock climbing · Torrey

Capitol Gorge

Capitol Gorge in Utah has 6 trad climbing routes across 5 difficulty grades.

Capitol GorgePhoto: Greg Willis from Denver, CO, usa, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)
6 routes
5.9 – 5.13a
Trad

Is Capitol Gorge open right now?

Alert in the area

The National Park Service lists 2 alerts for Capitol Reef National Park.

  • Elevated E. Coli levels - Fremont River and Sulphur Creek

    Park alert covering Capitol Reef National Park · NPS · Capitol Reef National Park

  • Monsoon Season & Flash Floods

    Park alert covering Capitol Reef National Park · NPS · Capitol Reef National Park

As of · Source: NPS · Capitol Reef National Park. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Capitol Gorge

Best months: March–May and September–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    41° / 21°

    3 wet · 2 snow

  2. Feb

    47° / 26°

    4 wet · 1 snow

  3. Mar

    57° / 34°

    4 wet · 1 snow

  4. Apr

    65° / 39°

    4 wet

  5. May

    74° / 48°

    5 wet

  6. Jun

    86° / 58°

    4 wet

  7. Jul

    91° / 65°

    7 wet

  8. Aug

    88° / 63°

    8 wet

  9. Sep

    80° / 55°

    6 wet

  10. Oct

    66° / 43°

    4 wet

  11. Nov

    51° / 30°

    3 wet · 1 snow

  12. Dec

    40° / 21°

    3 wet · 2 snow

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Capitol Reef Np, UT, 6.9 mi away at 5,500 ft. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Capitol Gorge is a climbing area in Capitol Reef National Park in Utah, managed by the National Park Service. It sits within the park's own boundaries, and a fee is charged for access. Spring and fall are the most comfortable times to visit. Typical averages from a nearby weather station show May highs around 74°F and October highs around 66°F, while July averages about 91°F and January highs sit near 41°F. The area has six trad routes, with grades ranging from 5.9 to 5.13a. Classic Handcrack and Seamus Chill are both 5.9, and Mystery Splitter is 5.13a. The Capital Gorge Boulders lie just 0.3 miles away, and the Golden Throne hike is also about 0.3 miles off. The Capitol Gorge Trail is roughly 0.9 miles away, and Capitol Reef Group Campground is about 5.9 miles away.

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive

Capital Gorge BouldersPhoto: Famartin, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Capital Gorge Boulders

~1 min drive

7 bouldering routes in Utah, 5 difficulty grades.

Grand Wash BouldersPhoto: Famartin, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Grand Wash Boulders

~7 min drive

Grand Wash Boulders in Utah has 5 climbing routes.

Terrible Twos WallPhoto: The Dye Clan, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Terrible Twos Wall

~7 min drive

Terrible Twos Wall in Utah has 10 climbing routes with 9 difficulty grades.

Fruita AreaPhoto: brewbooks from near Seattle, USA, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Fruita Area

~12 min drive

Fruita Area in Utah has 3 trad climbing routes on 3 difficulty grades.

Capitol ReefPhoto: runt35, CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Capitol Reef

~12 min drive

Capitol Reef in Utah has 13 climbing routes across 10 difficulty grades.

White Harlem WallPhoto: snikrap, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

White Harlem Wall

~22 min drive

White Harlem Wall in Utah has 6 climbing routes with sport and trad options.

Giles Townsite BouldersPhoto: The Greater Southwestern Exploration Company from Claremont, California, United States, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Giles Townsite Boulders

~33 min drive

5 bouldering routes in Utah spanning 4 difficulty grades.

Upper Bull Mountain BouldersPhoto: Michael Gordon, CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Upper Bull Mountain Boulders

~42 min drive

Upper Bull Mountain Boulders in Utah has 5 bouldering routes.

Long CanyonPhoto: Greg Willis from Denver, CO, usa, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Long Canyon

~42 min drive

Long Canyon in Utah has 7 climbing routes across 6 difficulty grades.

Lonesome Beaver RoadPhoto: DXR, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Lonesome Beaver Road

~43 min drive

Lonesome Beaver Road in Utah has 3 bouldering routes with 2 difficulty grades.