Utah · Rock climbing · Monticello

Broken Tooth

Broken Tooth in Utah has 33 climbing routes with 10 difficulty grades, offering sport and trad options.

33 routes
5.10 – 5.12+
Trad · Sport

Best time to visit Broken Tooth

Best months: March–May and September–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    42° / 17°

    4 wet · 2 snow

  2. Feb

    49° / 23°

    4 wet · 1 snow

  3. Mar

    59° / 30°

    5 wet · 1 snow

  4. Apr

    67° / 36°

    5 wet

  5. May

    77° / 46°

    4 wet

  6. Jun

    89° / 56°

    3 wet

  7. Jul

    95° / 63°

    5 wet

  8. Aug

    92° / 61°

    6 wet

  9. Sep

    84° / 51°

    5 wet

  10. Oct

    70° / 38°

    5 wet

  11. Nov

    55° / 26°

    4 wet · 1 snow

  12. Dec

    42° / 18°

    4 wet · 2 snow

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Canyonlands-The Needles, UT, 11.5 mi away at 4,906 ft. The station sits about 1,000 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Broken Tooth is a climbing area on Bureau of Land Management land within the Monticello Field Office in Utah. It sits among a cluster of other climbing spots, so it works well as one stop in a day of bouldering or route climbing in the area. Spring and fall are the most comfortable times to visit. Typical averages from a nearby weather station show May highs around 77°F and October highs around 70°F, while July averages about 95°F and January highs sit near 42°F. Fin Wall is about 0.4 miles away and Public Service Wall about 0.5 miles. Cat Wall is roughly 0.7 miles off. For an overnight stay, Superbowl Campground is about 4.4 miles away.

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive

Fin WallPhoto: joannapoe, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

Fin Wall

~1 min drive

Fin Wall in Utah has 37 traditional climbing routes across 15 difficulty grades.

Reservoir WallPhoto: joannapoe, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

Reservoir Wall

~2 min drive

Reservoir Wall in Utah has 60 climbing routes across 18 grades, featuring mixed and traditional styles.

Pods WallPhoto: joannapoe, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

Pods Wall

~3 min drive

Pods Wall is a Utah climbing crag with 8 routes ranging over 6 difficulty grades.

Disappointment CliffsPhoto: joannapoe, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

Disappointment Cliffs

~3 min drive

Disappointment Cliffs in Utah has 19 trad climbing routes.

ScarfacePhoto: joannapoe, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

Scarface

~4 min drive

Versatile Utah crag with routes for climbers of various abilities.

Power WallPhoto: joannapoe, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

Power Wall

~5 min drive

Power Wall in Utah has 22 traditional climbing routes across 10 difficulty grades.

Original Meat WallPhoto: BFS Man from Webster, TX, USA, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Original Meat Wall

~5 min drive

Original Meat Wall in Utah has 16 traditional climbing routes across 7 grades.

Sacred Cow WallPhoto: BFS Man from Webster, TX, USA, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Sacred Cow Wall

~5 min drive

Sacred Cow Wall in Utah has 20 traditional climbing routes across 11 grades.

Lavender Butte/The Happy SubmarinePhoto: katsrcool, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Lavender Butte/The Happy Submarine

~6 min drive

Lavender Butte/The Happy Submarine in Utah has 6 trad routes across 5 grades.

Sinbad Wall aka Nuclear WallPhoto: Kent G. Budge, CC0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Sinbad Wall aka Nuclear Wall

~7 min drive

Sinbad Wall (Nuclear Wall) in Utah has 27 traditional climbing routes.