Tennessee · Rock climbing · Howard Mill

Lilly Bluff

Lilly Bluff in Tennessee has 50 climbing routes spanning 22 grades and mixed, sport, and trad styles.

Lilly BluffPhoto: MichaelGras, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)
50 routes
5.9 – 5.13-
Sport · Trad · Mixed

Is Lilly Bluff open right now?

No closures listed

The National Park Service lists no closures for Obed Wild and Scenic River.

As of · Source: NPS · Obed Wild and Scenic River. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Lilly Bluff

Best months: March–April and August–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    46° / 26°

    11 wet

  2. Feb

    50° / 28°

    10 wet

  3. Mar

    59° / 34°

    11 wet

  4. Apr

    69° / 42°

    11 wet

  5. May

    76° / 51°

    13 wet

  6. Jun

    83° / 59°

    13 wet

  7. Jul

    86° / 63°

    13 wet

  8. Aug

    85° / 62°

    11 wet

  9. Sep

    80° / 54°

    10 wet

  10. Oct

    70° / 43°

    10 wet

  11. Nov

    59° / 34°

    9 wet

  12. Dec

    50° / 29°

    11 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Lancing 6 Nw, TN, 3.3 mi away at 1,520 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Lilly Bluff is a climbing area in Tennessee's Obed Wild and Scenic River, managed by the National Park Service. It sits among a cluster of climbing and hiking spots, with Hemlock Boulder and the Lilly Bridge Trail both about 0.1 mile away. The area has 50 routes, mostly sport climbing with a few trad and mixed options. Grades run from 5.9- up to 5.13-, with the median around 5.11c. Among the named routes are Ivy League at 5.10+ and Blasphemy at 5.13-. Spring and fall are the most comfortable times to visit. Typical averages from a nearby weather station show October highs around 70°F with lows near 43°F, while July highs reach about 86°F. Rock Creek Campground (TN) is about 3.8 miles away, and Rock Creek, a paddling route, is about 6.5 miles off.

Routes (50)

Ivy LeagueFA: James Gose5.10+Done Dirt CheepFA: James Gose5.10aMixed NutsFA: Bruce Henderson5.10aTarantellaFA: Lisa McKee5.10aTicks Are For KidsFA: James Gose5.10aBlade LoaferFA: Stan Wallace, 1979 (on gear)5.10bMotion SicknessFA: James Gose5.10bParaphernaliaFA: James Gose5.10b/cDinosaur Jr.FA: Stan Wallace & Bob Cormany - 19795.10cFirst LaughFA: Mike Mckee5.10cLast LaughFA: Mike McKee5.10cY'all Ain't From 'Round HereFA: Taylor Roy and Rebecca Cuniberti 8/9/155.10cAlienFA: MIke Mckee5.10dElectric Chair5.10dGiggle5.11aWhipper SnapperFA: James Gose5.11aLounge LizardFA: Bruce Henderson5.11bPoison IvyFA: James Gose5.11bClyde the Mega DudeFA: Kelly Brown5.11b/cAneurism5.11cCrackin' UpFA: Rusty Deel5.11cDrive ByFA: Kenny Campbell5.11cEvil WeedFA: Kenny Campbell5.11cHeresyFA: Kelly Brown5.11cHieroglyphicsFA: Mike McKee5.11cOsirisFA: John Norwell5.11cUnga BungaFA: FFA John Sites (95)?, perhaps Cormany/Stannard5.11c/dBacker SpitFA: Thomas Harmon5.11dBorderlineFA: Mike Mckee5.11dEgyptianFA: Mike Mckee5.11dKrieg's CrackFA: Sam Krieg5.11dNeanderthalFA: 5.10 Bob Cormany (11d finish Kelly Brown)5.11dOrganized CrimeFA: Mike McKee5.11dTrickin the WeaselFA: Randy Joyner5.11dNC Sport ClimberFA: Phil York, Maggie Sibley (2005)5.12+Body Hammer5.12aElectric SkyFA: Mike McKee5.12aGangstaFA: Kenny Campbell5.12aRebel FlagFA: Taylor Roy and Leah Frazer, 8/8/155.12bRolling CoalFA: Taylor Roy and Leah Frazer, 7/25/155.12bWheatward BoundFA: Kelly Brown5.12bYakuzaFA: Kenny Campbell5.12bOde to the QuitterFA: Kevin Cox and Sam Krieg5.12b/cLa FamiliaFA: Kenny Campbell5.12cTemporary InsanityFA: Sam Bozeman5.12cBoogie Man5.12dBlasphemyFA: Kelly Brown/James Litz5.13-PiggyFA: Some old school dude5.9Rocking ChairFA: Craig Stannard, Bob Cormany5.9-Dirty DeedsFA: James Gose5.9+

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