New Mexico · Rock climbing · Jemez Springs

Main Cliff

Main Cliff in New Mexico has 59 traditional climbing routes across 14 difficulty grades.

59 routes
5.9 – 5.13-
Trad

Is Main Cliff open right now?

Closure in the area

There's a closure order in Jemez Ranger District. It doesn't name Main Cliff, so check the source for the area it covers.

As of · Source: USFS · Jemez Ranger District. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Main Cliff

Best months: April–June and September–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    40° / 21°

    6 wet

  2. Feb

    45° / 24°

    6 wet

  3. Mar

    53° / 30°

    7 wet

  4. Apr

    61° / 35°

    6 wet

  5. May

    70° / 44°

    6 wet

  6. Jun

    81° / 53°

    7 wet

  7. Jul

    83° / 57°

    13 wet

  8. Aug

    80° / 55°

    14 wet

  9. Sep

    74° / 49°

    9 wet

  10. Oct

    63° / 38°

    6 wet

  11. Nov

    50° / 28°

    5 wet

  12. Dec

    40° / 21°

    6 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Los Alamos, NM, 6.8 mi away at 7,424 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Main Cliff is a climbing area in the Dome Wilderness, part of the Jemez Ranger District of the Santa Fe National Forest in New Mexico. The Forest Service manages the land, and the area sits within designated wilderness. The climbing here is all trad, with 59 routes spread across the cliff. The grades run from 5.9 up to 5.13-, with the median around 5.11-. Garden Party is a 5.9, and Witchcraft and Widgetry is the hardest at 5.13-. Several other routes fall in between, including Holloween at 5.10 and History Lesson at 5.11+. For timing, late spring and early fall are the most comfortable. Typical averages from the nearby Los Alamos weather station show May highs around 70°F and September highs around 74°F, while July and August bring the most wet days, about 13 and 14 a month. Other climbing areas lie close by, including Main Sector, Entrance Pinnacle Sector and Capulin Canyon, each about 0.3 miles away. The Capulin hike starts about 0.6 miles off.

Routes (59)

Captain ObviousFA: Josh Smith, George Perkins5.10Crap5.10Fists of FuryFA: George Perkins, Josh Smith5.10HolloweenFA: Josh Smith, Steve DiMarino5.10Orb WeaverFA: Steve DiMarino, Josh Smith5.10SlotterhouseFA: Josh Smith, George Perkins5.10TaqueriaFA: Josh Smith, Andrew Sykes5.10Unfinished5.10Easy, Vicar!FA: Josh Smith, Mark Wolfenden5.10-Nuclear WinterFA: George Perkins, Calita Quesada5.10-PonderosaFA: George Perkins, Calita Quesada5.10-Unnamed 3FA: James Hunter5.10-BlockheadFA: Josh Smith, Sam Gardner5.10+Monkey Spank5.10+Perk UpFA: George Perkins, Josh Smith, Mark Wolfenden5.10+PhysicalFA: Josh Smith, George Perkins, Calita Quesada5.10+Unnamed 2FA: Josh Smith, George Perkins5.10+Urban FantasyFA: Josh Smith, Steve DiMarino5.10+Whole Lota RosieFA: Josh Smith, George Perkins5.10+WiddershinsFA: Josh Smith, Mark Wolfenden5.10+Simian SunshineFA: A. Miller with D. Berisford and E. Swanson5.10aFergusFA: Josh Smith and Eric Heatwole5.11FPRFA: Josh, Steve DiMarino5.11HellbenderFA: Josh Smith, Steve DiMarino5.11Killa BeezFA: Josh Smith, Sam Gardner5.11Monkey BusinessFA: A. Miller with some combination of effort by W. Vining, G. Perkins and J. Smith5.11MonsterFA: Josh Smith, George Perkins5.11PerkolaterFA: Josh Smith, George Perkins5.11Pinch PointFA: Josh Smith, George Perkins5.11Pinky MiceFA: Josh Smith, Matt Balkey5.11Rue Morgue AvenueFA: Josh Smith, Matt Balkey, George Perkins5.11RufieFA: Josh Smith, Steve DiMarino5.11UnnamedFA: Josh Smith, Steve DiMarino5.11CircumlocutionFA: Josh Smith, Mark Wolfenden5.11-Frisky WidowFA: Josh Smith, George Perkins5.11-Hallucinogen RoofFA: Josh Smith, Sam Gardner5.11-SquozeFA: Josh Smith, Steve DiMarino5.11-Capulin Classic5.11+EndgameFA: Josh Smith5.11+GauntletFA: Josh Smith, Mark Wolfenden5.11+History LessonFA: Jean De Lataillade5.11+LoctiteFA: EB George Perkins, Calita Quesada5.11+Perk-ocetFA: Josh Smith, George Perkins5.11+Red Bull and CopenhagenFA: George, Leslie, Josh5.11+Stairway to HeavenFA: Josh Smith, Steve DiMarino5.11+Sticky FingersFA: A. Miller5.11+PintrestFA: Josh Smith, Steve DiMarino5.11aSilver CityFA: George Perkins, Calita Quesada5.11aPretty Fly for a White GuyFA: Josh Smith5.12RestlessFA: Josh Smith5.12Less Than ZeroFA: Josh Smith, George Perkins, Mark Wolfenden5.12-Lightning RoadFA: Josh Smith5.12-WidowmakerFA: Josh Smith, George Perkins5.12-White CornerFA: Perkins, Will Vining, Rika Beck5.12cWitchcraft and WidgetryFA: Eric Bissell5.13-Garden PartyFA: Josh Smith, Matt Balkey5.9Hollowlean5.9Tree HuggerFA: George Perkins, Calita Quesada5.9Dark CrystalFA: Josh Smith, Mandy Smith5.9+