New Mexico · Rock climbing · Jemez Springs

Eagle Canyon

Eagle Canyon in New Mexico has 25 climbing routes ranging across 13 difficulty grades, offering sport and trad options.

25 routes
5.9+ – 5.13a
Sport · Trad

Is Eagle Canyon open right now?

Closure in the area

There's a closure order in Jemez Ranger District. It doesn't name Eagle Canyon, so check the source for the area it covers.

As of · Source: USFS · Jemez Ranger District. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Eagle Canyon

Best months: April–June and September–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    40° / 21°

    6 wet

  2. Feb

    45° / 24°

    6 wet

  3. Mar

    53° / 30°

    7 wet

  4. Apr

    61° / 35°

    6 wet

  5. May

    70° / 44°

    6 wet

  6. Jun

    81° / 53°

    7 wet

  7. Jul

    83° / 57°

    13 wet

  8. Aug

    80° / 55°

    14 wet

  9. Sep

    74° / 49°

    9 wet

  10. Oct

    63° / 38°

    6 wet

  11. Nov

    50° / 28°

    5 wet

  12. Dec

    40° / 21°

    6 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Los Alamos, NM, 10.7 mi away at 7,424 ft. The station sits about 600 ft higher than this place, so expect it a little warmer here. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Eagle Canyon is a climbing area in the Dome Wilderness, part of the Jemez Ranger District of the Santa Fe National Forest in New Mexico. The Forest Service manages the land, and the area sits within designated wilderness. The climbing here is sport-oriented, with 23 sport routes and two trad routes among the 25 listed. The YDS grades run from 5.9+ up to 5.13+, with the median at 5.11c. Some of the named routes include Killer Bee (5.9+), Turkey Baster (5.10c), and Didgemaster (5.13+), the hardest of the bunch. For timing, late spring and early fall are the most comfortable. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Los Alamos show May highs around 70°F and September highs around 74°F, while July and August bring the most wet days, about 13 to 14 a month. Several other climbing areas and hikes lie close by. The Dihedrals, North Cliffband and South Cliffband are all about 0.7 miles away, and St. Peter's Dome is half a mile off.