California · Rock climbing · Shaver Lake

Penstemon Dome (West Face)

Penstemon Dome (West Face) in California has 10 climbing routes across 5 grades.

10 routes

5.6 – 5.10a

Alpine

Is Penstemon Dome (West Face) open right now?

Closure in the area

There's a closure order in Sierra National Forest. It doesn't name Penstemon Dome (West Face), so check the source for the area it covers (3 listed).

Safety Tips for Burned Areas: Garnet Fire Area
Agency closure covering Sierra National Forest · USFS · Sierra National Forest
Wilderness Food and Refuse Storage
Agency closure covering Sierra National Forest · Order 05-15-00-26-03 · USFS · Sierra National Forest
Food and Refuse Storage
Agency closure covering Sierra National Forest · Order 05-15-00-26-02 · USFS · Sierra National Forest
Forest Order removes Fish Camp, Soda Springs, and Little Jackass from closure list
Agency alert covering Sierra National Forest · Order 05-15-00-26-11 · USFS · Sierra National Forest
Ansel Adams and John Muir Wilderness Campfire Restrictions
Agency alert covering Sierra National Forest · Order 05-15-00-26-09 · USFS · Sierra National Forest

As of Oct 23, 8:00 pm PDT · Source: USFS · Sierra National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Penstemon Dome (West Face)

Best months: May–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

Jan
43° / 24°
11 wet
Feb
44° / 23°
11 wet
Mar
46° / 26°
10 wet
Apr
50° / 29°
8 wet
May
56° / 36°
6 wet
Jun
66° / 42°
3 wet
Jul
74° / 49°
2 wet
Aug
74° / 49°
1 wet
Sep
68° / 44°
2 wet
Oct
58° / 37°
4 wet
Nov
49° / 31°
8 wet
Dec
44° / 25°
10 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Huntington Lake, CA, 17.6 mi away at 7,020 ft. The station sits about 1,200 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Penstemon Dome (West Face) is a climbing area in the John Muir Wilderness, part of the High Sierra Ranger District of Sierra National Forest in California. The Forest Service manages the land, and the dome sits within designated wilderness, so expect to plan around the rules that apply there. The West Face is one of the two main climbing areas on the dome, with the Right Side of East Face about 0.2 miles away. The routes here are all alpine, and they range from 5.6 to 5.10a on the YDS scale. Sunday Hoe-down is the easiest at 5.6, and Song of the Earth is the hardest at 5.10a. The first ascents of these routes date back to the 1980s. Summer is the most comfortable time to climb. Typical averages from the Huntington Lake weather station, about 17.6 miles away, show July and August highs around 74°F with lows near 49°F and only one or two wet days a month. That station sits roughly 1,200 feet below the dome, so temperatures on the dome run cooler. Nearby, the Frazier hike is about 1.4 miles away and the Blackcap Trail about 2.3 miles. For paddling, Helms Creek is about 3.6 miles off, and Buck Meadow campground is about 7.8 miles away.