Magic Wall
Magic Wall in California has 13 climbing routes across 7 grades.
- 13 routes
- 5.9 – 5.11d
- Trad · Sport
Is Magic Wall open right now?
Closure in the area
There's a closure order in Sierra National Forest. It doesn't name Magic Wall, so check the source for the area it covers (3 listed).
Safety Tips for Burned Areas: Garnet Fire Area
Agency closure covering Sierra National Forest · USFS · Sierra National Forest
Wilderness Food and Refuse Storage
Agency closure covering Sierra National Forest · Order 05-15-00-26-03 · USFS · Sierra National Forest
Food and Refuse Storage
Agency closure covering Sierra National Forest · Order 05-15-00-26-02 · USFS · Sierra National Forest
Forest Order removes Fish Camp, Soda Springs, and Little Jackass from closure list
Agency alert covering Sierra National Forest · Order 05-15-00-26-11 · USFS · Sierra National Forest
Ansel Adams and John Muir Wilderness Campfire Restrictions
Agency alert covering Sierra National Forest · Order 05-15-00-26-09 · USFS · Sierra National Forest
As of · Source: USFS · Sierra National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.
Best time to visit Magic Wall
Best months: May–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.
Jan
43° / 24°
11 wet
Feb
44° / 23°
11 wet
Mar
46° / 26°
10 wet
Apr
50° / 29°
8 wet
May
56° / 36°
6 wet
Jun
66° / 42°
3 wet
Jul
74° / 49°
2 wet
Aug
74° / 49°
1 wet
Sep
68° / 44°
2 wet
Oct
58° / 37°
4 wet
Nov
49° / 31°
8 wet
Dec
44° / 25°
10 wet
Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Huntington Lake, CA, 19 mi away at 7,020 ft. The station sits about 800 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.
Magic Wall is a climbing area in the Bass Lake Ranger District of Sierra National Forest in California, managed by the Forest Service. It sits among a cluster of climbing spots, with Quarter Day Dome about 0.1 mile away and Chilkoot Lake about 0.3 mile away, making it easy to pair with other routes in the same corner of the forest. The area offers a mix of trad and sport climbing, with 13 routes in total. Grades run from 5.9 up to 5.11d, and the median is 5.10c. Among the named routes are Aces, Straights and Flushes (5.9 trad), Hocus Pocus Arete (5.10b sport), and Whirlin Merlin (5.11d trad). The climbing is best suited to those comfortable with 5.10 and 5.11 grades. Summer is the most comfortable time to visit. Typical averages from the Huntington Lake weather station, about 19 miles away, show July and August highs around 74°F with lows near 49°F and only one or two wet days a month. Winter is much colder, with January highs around 43°F and lows near 24°F. For a break from the rock, the Beasore Trail and Central Trail are both about 2.5 miles away, and Gaggs Camp and Texas Flat offer camping within about 4 miles.
Routes (13)
Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive
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Photo: Guywelch2000, CC BY-SA 4.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)Main Wall - Lower Left
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6 routes at Main Wall - Lower Left in California, ranging from moderate to hard difficulty.
Photo: Guywelch2000, CC BY-SA 4.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)High Eagle
~7 min drive
High Eagle in California has 10 climbing routes with sport and trad options.
Photo: Guywelch2000, CC BY-SA 4.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)Enchanted Rock
~7 min drive
Enchanted Rock in California offers 11 sport climbing routes across 7 difficulty grades.
Photo: Guywelch2000, CC BY-SA 4.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)Fresno Dome
~8 min drive
Fresno Dome in California has 12 climbing routes across 10 grades, offering sport and trad styles.
Photo: Guywelch2000, CC BY-SA 4.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)j. Hawk Dome
~8 min drive
j. Hawk Dome in California has 3 sport climbing routes spanning 3 difficulty grades.
Photo: stevelyon, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)Corduroy
~9 min drive
Corduroy in California has 5 climbing routes ranging across 5 difficulty grades.
Photo: stevelyon, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)Gold Eagle
~9 min drive
Gold Eagle in California has 7 climbing routes with 7 difficulty grades, offering sport and trad styles.
Chilkoot Lake
~0 min drive
Chilkoot Lake in California has 9 climbing routes across 6 grades, offering sport and trad options.
Forty Licks
~1 min drive
Forty Licks in California has 6 climbing routes across 5 grades, offering sport and trad styles.
