California · Rock climbing · Desert Hot Springs

Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)

26-route climbing area in California with sport and trad options.

Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)Photo: blachswan, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)
26 routes
5.6 – 5.12a/b
Trad · Sport

Is Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left) open right now?

Alert in the area

The National Park Service lists 3 alerts for Joshua Tree National Park.

  • Partial Trail Closure of West Side Loop

    Park alert covering Joshua Tree National Park · NPS · Joshua Tree National Park

  • Inaccurate Third-Party Apps

    Park alert covering Joshua Tree National Park · NPS · Joshua Tree National Park

  • Oasis of Mara Trail Partial Closure

    Park alert covering Joshua Tree National Park · NPS · Joshua Tree National Park

As of · Source: NPS · Joshua Tree National Park. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)

Best months: October–May. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    58° / 38°

    4 wet

  2. Feb

    61° / 39°

    3 wet

  3. Mar

    67° / 40°

    3 wet

  4. Apr

    73° / 46°

    2 wet

  5. May

    82° / 52°

    1 wet

  6. Jun

    91° / 59°

    0 wet

  7. Jul

    96° / 66°

    2 wet

  8. Aug

    96° / 68°

    2 wet

  9. Sep

    89° / 60°

    2 wet

  10. Oct

    80° / 50°

    1 wet

  11. Nov

    66° / 41°

    2 wet

  12. Dec

    58° / 34°

    4 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Yucca Valley, CA, 14.1 mi away at 3,249 ft. The station sits about 900 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left) is a climbing area in Joshua Tree National Park in California, managed by the National Park Service. It sits among a cluster of climbing spots on the park's east side, including Hemingway Buttress (East Face Center), Papa Boulder and Tiny Tots Rock, all within about a tenth of a mile. The area has 26 routes, mostly traditional, with two sport routes. Grades run from 5.6 up to 5.12a/b, so it suits climbers of different abilities. Poodlesby is the easiest at 5.6, and The Sun Also Rises is the hardest at 5.12a/b. Most of the routes are on the left side of the East Face. Spring and fall are the most comfortable times to climb. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Yucca Valley show April highs around 73°F and October highs around 80°F, while July and August average about 96°F. A fee is charged for park use. The Quail Springs Historic Trail is about 0.2 miles away, and the Hidden Valley Trailhead is about a mile off. For an overnight stay, Sheep Pass Group campground is roughly 3.8 miles away.

Routes (26)

Sea MonkeysFA: Todd Swain & Debbie Brenchley 11/19915.10Pig in HeatFA: Matt Cox, Randy Vogel & Jim Dutzi, February 1976 Direct start: Randy Vogel5.10-More Funky Than JunkyFA: TR: Roger Whitehead, Mike Ayon, Mike Wolfe, Ed White, 3/1985; FKLA unknown.5.10aPrepackagedFA: John McGowen, Rich Smith & Herb Laegar, February 19775.10aRock WrenFA: Bob & Yvonne Gaines, November 19955.10aPoodles are People TooFA: Randy Vogel and Charles Cole, February 19805.10bGift WrappedFA: Bob Gaines, April 2000.5.10dHorn DogFA: Todd Gordon et al5.10dThe RoadrunnerFA: Bob Gaines, November 19955.11c/dThe Sun Also RisesFA: Bob Gaines, Dave Mayville and Tommy Romero, May 1995.5.12a/bPoodlesbyFA: Darryl Nakahira, November 19825.6Dung FuFA: John Long, Rick Accomazzo & Richard Harrison 2/735.7White LightningFA: Chris Wegener and Roy Naasz, March 19735.7Coyote BaitFA: Dave Evans, Margie Floyd, and Jim Angione, April 19895.7+Ant FarmFA: Alan Bartlett, Rick Briggs, July, 19905.8Feltonian PhysicsFA: Randy Vogel & Charles Cole, February 19805.8Funky DungFA: John Long and Kevin Worrall, December 19745.8Hernie, Hernie, HernieFA: Todd Gordon, Cyndie Bransford, May 19935.8Merry-go-Round Broke DownFA: Alan Bartlett5.8The Old Man and the AreteFA: Sandy Tanen, Ron Herschberg, and Bob Gaines, April 20095.8Such a PoodleFA: Darryl Nakahira and Randy Vogel, November 19825.8+Man's Best FriendFA: Todd Swain & Linda Maron 10/19905.9OverseerFA: Dan Ahlborn & Tim Powell, April 19775.9Smoke-a-BowlFA: Mike Ayon and Roger Whitehead, March 19855.9Golden YearsFA: Todd Gordon , Cyndie Bransford, Jim Angione, Dave Evens & Marge Floyd, June 19895.9+Overseer DirectFA: Jonny Woodward, January 19835.9+

Facts about this crag

Rules & access

Fee
Yes

Source: National Park Service API

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