Utah · Rock climbing · Blanding

Critic's Choice

Critic's Choice in Utah has 38 climbing routes across 13 grades, offering sport and trad options.

38 routes
5.9 – 5.13a
Trad · Sport

Best time to visit Critic's Choice

Best months: March–May and September–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    42° / 17°

    4 wet · 2 snow

  2. Feb

    49° / 23°

    4 wet · 1 snow

  3. Mar

    59° / 30°

    5 wet · 1 snow

  4. Apr

    67° / 36°

    5 wet

  5. May

    77° / 46°

    4 wet

  6. Jun

    89° / 56°

    3 wet

  7. Jul

    95° / 63°

    5 wet

  8. Aug

    92° / 61°

    6 wet

  9. Sep

    84° / 51°

    5 wet

  10. Oct

    70° / 38°

    5 wet

  11. Nov

    55° / 26°

    4 wet · 1 snow

  12. Dec

    42° / 18°

    4 wet · 2 snow

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Canyonlands-The Needles, UT, 12.7 mi away at 4,906 ft. The station sits about 1,100 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Critic's Choice is a climbing area in Utah on Bureau of Land Management land within the Monticello Field Office. It sits among several other climbing areas, with Sparks Wall about 1.3 miles away and Sabbatical Wall about 1.6 miles away. The area has 39 routes, mostly trad with one sport route. The grades run from 5.9- up to 5.13-, with the median around 5.10+. Among the named routes are Short and Stout (5.9-), Ed's World (5.10-), and Mr. Bad News (5.13-). Spring and fall are the most comfortable times to go. Typical averages from a nearby weather station show May highs around 77°F and October highs around 70°F, while July averages about 95°F. That station sits roughly 1,100 feet lower than the area, so temperatures here run cooler.

Routes (38)

Barley RouteFA: Matt Barley, Andrew Christiansen April 20025.10Blue Square5.10Life....5.10Mr. CriticalFA: Neil Kauffman, Trevor Bowman, Joel Kauffman, Alf 4/10/115.10Unknown5.10Unnamed 5.105.10Wrench RouteFA: DF5.10Ed's WorldFA: Josh Gross5.10-Unknown Wide Corner Route5.10-Cult ClassicFA: p.kingsbury n.kauffman5.10+FisticuffsFA: Trevor Bowman and Pat Kingsbury 4/3/105.10+Knees without honorFA: Anthony Johnson5.10+Refractory PeriodFA: Ben Hamilton, Shaun Reed, and Phil Powers in ~20115.10+SabrinaFA: Dan and Kelly Wright5.10aUnnamed 5.10 Flare5.10bAcronymph5.11Break a Leg5.11Critical Mass5.11Fist of FuryFA: Shaun Reed, Ben Hamilton, Phil Powers5.11Just BecauseFA: Darron Reay and Agjohns, fall of 20155.11New Life or Second LifeFA: unknown/ Orphaned?5.11Ruby FlameFA: Josh Gross5.11Second Choice5.11Sgt. Fish ScaleFA: Trevor Bowman, P.Kingsbury5.11Sugar PlumFA: Brandon Adams, Rebecca Church,20215.11The Hitch Hiker's ThumbFA: Pat Kingsbury, Trevor Bowman, Neil Kauffman, Kyler Pallister 11/10/085.11BBC from Cleveland (Big Bold Climbers)FA: Kris Lucic5.11-Tom's Thumb5.11-Uncut5.11-Critic's ChoiceFA: Ruckman Bros.5.12Thin and Tipsy5.12+Mr. Bad NewsFA: Mason Earle '145.13-Belly Full of Bad BerriesFA: Brad Jackson5.13a(Brutus of) Wyde ChoiceFA: Patrick Kingsbury, Pamela Shanti Pack, Spring 2010.5.9Bunny Slope5.9Pinch It5.9Unknown Chimney5.9Short and StoutFA: Darron Reay and Agjohns, fall of 20155.9-

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