North Carolina · Rock climbing · Bear Creek

Desperado Wall

Desperado Wall in North Carolina has 16 routes with mixed and trad climbing.

16 routes
5.10 – 5.12a
Mixed · Trad

Best time to visit Desperado Wall

Best months: February–May and September–December. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    53° / 31°

    9 wet

  2. Feb

    57° / 33°

    8 wet

  3. Mar

    65° / 39°

    9 wet

  4. Apr

    75° / 47°

    9 wet

  5. May

    81° / 56°

    9 wet

  6. Jun

    87° / 64°

    9 wet

  7. Jul

    90° / 69°

    10 wet

  8. Aug

    88° / 67°

    10 wet

  9. Sep

    83° / 61°

    7 wet

  10. Oct

    74° / 49°

    7 wet

  11. Nov

    63° / 38°

    7 wet

  12. Dec

    55° / 33°

    9 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Sanford 8 Ne, NC, 13.8 mi away at 262 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Desperado Wall is a climbing area in North Carolina, about 3 miles from the town of Goldston. It sits among several other climbing spots, with Hound Ears, The Main Wall and Black Bear Buttress all within about a tenth of a mile. That makes it easy to pair with those neighbors on a single visit. The area has 16 routes, split evenly between mixed and traditional styles. The grades run from 5.10a up to 5.12a, with the median at 5.11. Granite Man is a mixed route at 5.10a, and Hocus Focus is a traditional 5.12a. The Return Of Grunge and Sticks & Stones are both trad at 5.11. Spring and fall are the most comfortable times to climb. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Sanford show October highs around 74°F with lows near 49°F, and April highs around 75°F. July is the warmest month, with highs near 90°F. Paddlers can head to Bear Creek, about 4 miles away, or Indian Creek, about 5 miles away. Hikers will find Rocky Bluffs Trail roughly 6.5 miles off.