New York · Rock climbing · Watson

Eagle Falls

49 routes
5.1 – 5.13a
Trad · Sport · Mixed
May–Oct
best months

Eagle Falls is a climbing area in New York's Watson's East Triangle Wild Forest, managed by the State Department of Conservation. It offers a range of climbing styles, with 49 routes that run from trad and sport to mixed, and grades from 5.1 up to 5.13a. The easiest of these is the 5.1 Easy Ramp, a mixed route first climbed in 2005 by Jeff Heintz, and the hardest is the 5.13a No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast, a sport route with a 2017 first ascent. Summer is the most comfortable season to climb here. Typical averages from a nearby weather station show July highs around 75°F with lows near 55°F. That station sits about 8 miles away and 354 feet lower than the area, so expect cooler temperatures at the falls. Several other outdoor spots are within easy reach. The Beaver River, a canoeing route, is about 1.2 miles away, and the Jakes Pond Trail and Keck Trail hikes lie about 5 and 6 miles off.

  • Best time to go · May–Oct

    Best time to visit Eagle Falls

    Best months: May–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      26° / 4°

    2. Feb

      28° / 4°

    3. Mar

      36° / 13°

    4. Apr

      50° / 27°

    5. May

      64° / 42°

    6. Jun

      71° / 51°

    7. Jul

      75° / 55°

    8. Aug

      74° / 54°

    9. Sep

      67° / 47°

    10. Oct

      55° / 35°

    11. Nov

      42° / 25°

    12. Dec

      32° / 13°

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Stillwater Rsvr, NY, 8 mi away at 1,690 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Routes (49)

Easy RampFA: FA 2005, Jeff Heintz (solo)5.1Jaw GainsFA: Jonathan Tedrow, Bri Goold5.10aLloyds of Lowville5.10aTrap 'em!FA: Kris Fiore, Jamie Johnson (August 30th, 2015)5.10aHot n' StankyFA: Kris Fiore, Marissa Gorman, Aug. 5, 20165.10bPerky AndreaFA: Kris Fiore, Luke Mendola5.10bOral in the DarkFA: Kris Fiore, Marissa Gorman, Joe Falzetta (Belayer) August 9, 20155.10cThe Eagle Has Landed5.10cGo to BreadFA: Kris Fiore, Luke Mendola, August 21, 20165.10dRavenousFA: Jim Lawyer5.11a/bCall Ya MothaFA: Kris Fiore, Julia Shatten (9/1/2018)5.11bClass FiveFA: Jim Lawyer5.11cEl SupremoFA: Jim Lawyer5.11cFast and LooseFA: Kris Fiore5.11cLichen or Not5.11cHooker Heels and Crimp PimpsFA: 2013 Andrew Freeman, Chris Todt5.12aThree Raccoons in a Patagonia FleeceFA: Kris Fiore, Aug. 24, 20175.12aDark LunchFA: Kris Fiore (7/13/19)5.12bPromiscuous Girl5.12bQueer Eye for the Straight LineFA: Kris Fiore, Amy Cheu (Aug 10, 2021)5.12bReverse KillFA: Kris Fiore (7/28/19)5.12bThe HydrofaxFA: Kris Fiore 8/14/175.12b/cLet The Wild Rumpus StartFA: Kris Fiore, Steve Locke (8/11/18)5.12cWe Want No Loss Nor Gain of LifeFA: Kris Fiore (10/13/19)5.12dNo Fun at Camp, No Sex at BreakfastFA: Kris Fiore (July 7, 2017)5.13aAdsite Arete5.4The Tower of BabelFA: 1988 Eric Buzzell, Aaron Buzzell5.4Good HousekeepingFA: 2005 Rolf Orsagh, Adrian Fife5.5Gypsy's Curse5.5Face of a Thousand Cracks5.6Fipi Lele5.6Soft Maple Times5.6Dobsonfly5.7Monkey Bars and Geetar Stars5.7Rolling StoneFA: Mark Chavin Bezinque, Rolf Orsagh 20065.7The Big DongerFA: Curtis Howard, Carlos Barrios5.7The Waiting lineFA: Jacob Kirk and Charlene Sandonato5.7SeventeenFA: Rolf Orsagh, Mark Chauvin Bezinque5.7+Random RopeFA: Curtis Howard, Dave Howard5.8Red BookFA: Rolf Orsagh, Edward Llado5.8The CrossFA: 1988 Eric Buzzell, Aaron Buzzell5.8CrackedFA: Jacob Kirk and Charlene Sandonato5.9Grumpy RacoonFA: Kris Fiore, Lyndon Cudlitz, October 11 20155.9Naked TruthFA: Jim Lawyer, Simeon Warner, Leslie Ackerman5.9Open for BusinessFA: (TR) Oct 21, 2007 Carlos Barrios, Curtis Howard5.9Prey TellFA: Novemeber 13th, 2009, Neal Knitel, Jim Lawyer5.9Sammy-Jo TraceyvilleFA: Kris Fiore, Marissa Gorman July 19, 20155.9The TaspFA: June 30th, 2008, Jim Lawyer, Neal Knitel5.9Stihl Water5.9+