Maine · Rock climbing · Clifton

Eagle Bluff

63 routes
5.1 – 5.12b
Sport · Trad · Top Rope
May–Oct
best months

Eagle Bluff is a climbing area in Maine, about 1.7 miles from several other climbing spots including e. Mountaineers Wall, a. Maple Run Wall and Parks Pond Bluff. The land is managed by a non-governmental organization, and the area is its own unit called Eagle Bluff. The climbing here ranges from easy to quite steep. Among the 63 routes, 32 are sport and 28 are trad, with the hardest at about 5.12+. The Maine Bound Memorial Route is a trad 5.1, and Wheaties is a sport 5.10a/b with a first ascent in 1977. Eavesy Stuff is a trad 5.10d, and 38 and Drug Free is a top rope at 5.12+. Summer is the warmest time to climb. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Orono show July highs around 81°F and lows near 58°F. The station sits about 560 feet below the bluff, so temperatures up high run cooler.

  • Best time to go · May–Oct

    Best time to visit Eagle Bluff

    Best months: May–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      28° / 11°

    2. Feb

      32° / 13°

    3. Mar

      41° / 21°

    4. Apr

      53° / 32°

    5. May

      66° / 43°

    6. Jun

      75° / 52°

    7. Jul

      81° / 58°

    8. Aug

      79° / 57°

    9. Sep

      70° / 48°

    10. Oct

      57° / 37°

    11. Nov

      45° / 29°

    12. Dec

      35° / 18°

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Orono, ME, 11.4 mi away at 115 ft. The station sits about 600 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Routes (63)

Maine Bound Memorial Route5.1WheatiesFA: John Espesito 19775.10a/bAnother Bolted Face ClimbFA: Paula King, Mark Tebaldi, JB, WS, CS 19905.10bAttitude AdjusterFA: Bob Parrot - solo5.10bDirty MeatFA: JB, DN, RG 19975.10bHighlanderFA: 10/905.10bRoute AwakeningFA: JB, RG 10/985.10bDown UnderFA: RG, DN, JC5.10cTexas Two StepFA: Jon Barker & Jon Tierney 4/925.10cAirline5.10dAll Seriousness AsideFA: Bob Parrot and Rob Adair, '845.10dBlaze of GloryFA: JB, WS 10/19905.10dChinese Water Torture DirectFA: Peter Lataille & Stevie Damboise 3/865.10dEavesy StuffFA: JB, DN, RG 19965.10dEntrance ExamFA: Peter Lataille, Steve Damboise, WS 3/865.10dWhere Eagles DareFA: Aided by Pat Jodice, Freed by Jim Ewing5.10dJack the DripperFA: Bob Parrott, solo5.11SeamlessFA: Rob Feeny (TR) 19965.11+Eagle DirectFA: Paul Piana and John Tierney5.11aHard StuffFA: Tom Kilpatrick, 1970s5.11aWhat's In a Name?FA: Jon Tierney & Todd Green 4/935.11aAmber Waves of GrainFA: Jon Tierney and Jon Barker5.11cDeliriousFA: Bob Parrott and Pat Jodice5.11cPunks in the GunksFA: Ward Smith and Dave Jones5.11cSales PitchFA: JB,CS,WS, PK 10/915.11cSqueezed InFA: Jon Tierney (TR)5.11cTalus Scout5.11cClimb Out or Ground OutFA: Steve Damboise5.11dCrankenstein5.11dScrappy FaceFA: Rob Feeney, Todd Green5.11d38 and Drug FreeFA: Jon Tierney (TR) 19975.12+Bloody PhalangesFA: Steve Damboise 19875.12aFlake to NowhereFA: Peter Lataille 19865.12aLongitudinal WaveFA: Rich Gerbert and Don Nelligan5.12aNo Rest for the WickedFA: Rich Gerbert5.12aReckless AbandonFA: Rich Gerbert5.12aThe Eagle Has LandedFA: Rich Gerbert and Don Nelligan5.12aElement 115FA: Rich Gerbert and Don Nelligan5.12bWave GuideFA: Rich Gerbert and Don Nelligan5.12bCorner LineFA: 70's5.4Easy StuffFA: Eric Henderson, John Pinnette, 19685.4AlleywayFA: Eric Hendrickson & John Pinnette 19695.5Pried and JoyFA: JB & DN 12/965.5Apple JamFA: Jon Tierney, 19965.6Standard Route AKA Open Book5.6Foxy Lady5.7HelpFA: Tom Kilpatrick, 1970s5.7Rainy Day DeliveranceFA: Jon Tierney, Eric Inman, Mark Leblond5.7Root of ChoiceFA: Unknown 1970s5.7Sales Flake5.7Alley Fox5.8Slice of the Gunks5.8Upside down staircaseFA: Chris Gill 1970's5.8Witch WonderFA: Eric Hendrickson, John Pinnette (70s) FFA - Mike Opuda (70s)5.8Walk on the Mild SideFA: Ward Smith, Chris Smith, Peter Lataille.5.8+Bivy RouteFA: RG, JB, DN 8/975.9CrankcaseFA: Peter Lataille, Jennifer Smith, Ward Smith, Steve Damboise, 4/865.9Happy Face5.9Short Stuff5.9Stevie's SpankingFA: CS, WS PL 19965.9The Tax Is Too SteepFA: JB, DN, John Crocker, Mike Avery5.9The Eagle's GiftFA: WS, JB 7/915.9+The Only FrontierFA: Steve Damboise, Pat Jodice, 19855.9+

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