Kentucky · Rock climbing · Frenchburg

Phantasia

Phantasia in Kentucky has 21 climbing routes with mixed, sport, and trad styles.

21 routes
5.5 – 5.12d
Trad · Sport · Mixed

Is Phantasia open right now?

Closure in the area

There's a closure order in Daniel Boone National Forest. It doesn't name Phantasia, so check the source for the area it covers (2 listed).

As of · Source: USFS · Daniel Boone National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Phantasia

Best months: August–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    42° / 24°

    13 wet

  2. Feb

    47° / 27°

    13 wet

  3. Mar

    57° / 34°

    15 wet

  4. Apr

    68° / 44°

    15 wet

  5. May

    75° / 53°

    15 wet

  6. Jun

    82° / 61°

    14 wet

  7. Jul

    84° / 65°

    14 wet

  8. Aug

    84° / 64°

    12 wet

  9. Sep

    79° / 57°

    10 wet

  10. Oct

    69° / 44°

    12 wet

  11. Nov

    57° / 35°

    12 wet

  12. Dec

    46° / 28°

    13 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Beattyville 4n, KY, 15.1 mi away at 1,080 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Phantasia is a climbing area in Kentucky's Daniel Boone National Forest, within the Cumberland Ranger District. The Forest Service manages the land, and the area sits among a cluster of other climbing spots, hiking trails and camping sites within a short drive. The climbing here runs to about 5.12d on the YDS scale, with 21 routes spread between sport and trad styles. Sport routes include Phantasia itself, a 5.12d, and Pogue Ethics at 5.9+. Trad routes include Le Petite Bazaar at 5.5 and You Got Served at 5.8. Spring and fall are the most comfortable times to visit. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Beattyville show May highs around 75°F and October highs near 69°F, while July and August average in the mid-80s. Tarr Ridge West is a hike just 0.1 mile away, and Fortress Wall and Tarr Ridge East Trail are both about half a mile off. For an overnight stay, Menifee County Dispersed Rec. Sites is about a mile away.

Routes (21)

Grand Bazaar5.10aPerverse IntentionsFA: Tony Reynaldo, Richard Brashear, 19935.10a/bOverlordFA: Terry Kindred - 20025.10bCreep ShowFA: P. Jarrard, J. Moll, C. Snyder, 19925.10dCount Floyd ShowFA: Porter Jarrard, M. Strevels, 19925.11bTwinkieFA: Porter Jarrard, Chris Snyder - 19925.12aLuck's UpFA: Porter Jarrard5.12bPhantasiaFA: Porter Jarrard, Tim Toula - 19905.12dLe Petite Bazaar5.5Over the FliesFA: 20005.5TomfooleryFA: Tom Seibert5.5The Gum TraverseFA: Kevin Wagner and Aaron Frank5.6BobsleddingFA: Tom Seibert, Bob Hill5.7St. Alfonso'sFA: Eric Bostrum, Carol Beechy, Linda Beal (July 1976)5.7Lord of the FliesFA: Kevin Pogue, Elisa Weinman Pogue - 19925.8Trogdor's Crack (pending)5.8You Got Served5.8Creature FeatureFA: Kevin Pogue and Elisa Weinman Pogue, 1991. P2 added 1992 by C. Keller, S Faulkner, T. Schlachter.5.9Little Dutch BoyFA: Nat Mann 20135.9Attack of the Sand SharkFA: Jerry Bargo, Bridget Shoe '935.9-Pogue EthicsFA: Doug Hemken, Kevin Pogue, 19915.9+

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