Kentucky · Rock climbing · Wellington

Middle Small Wall

Middle Small Wall is a Kentucky climbing crag with 7 trad routes.

7 routes
5.7 – 5.10+
Trad

Is Middle Small Wall open right now?

Closure in the area

There's a closure order in Daniel Boone National Forest. It doesn't name Middle Small Wall, so check the source for the area it covers (2 listed).

As of · Source: USFS · Daniel Boone National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Middle Small Wall

Best months: August–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    42° / 24°

    13 wet

  2. Feb

    47° / 27°

    13 wet

  3. Mar

    57° / 34°

    15 wet

  4. Apr

    68° / 44°

    15 wet

  5. May

    75° / 53°

    15 wet

  6. Jun

    82° / 61°

    14 wet

  7. Jul

    84° / 65°

    14 wet

  8. Aug

    84° / 64°

    12 wet

  9. Sep

    79° / 57°

    10 wet

  10. Oct

    69° / 44°

    12 wet

  11. Nov

    57° / 35°

    12 wet

  12. Dec

    46° / 28°

    13 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Beattyville 4n, KY, 14.8 mi away at 1,080 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Middle Small Wall is a climbing area in the Clifty Wilderness, part of the Cumberland Ranger District of Daniel Boone National Forest in Kentucky. The Forest Service manages the land, and the area sits within designated wilderness. The climbing here is all trad, with seven routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.10+. The easiest is Investigator at 5.7, and the hardest is The Quest at 5.10+. Layback Crack, first climbed by Larry Day and Tom Seibert in 1976, is a 5.8, and Devine Climb is a 5.8+. Spring and fall are the most comfortable times to visit. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Beattyville show May highs around 75°F and October highs around 69°F, with summer highs in the low 80s. Lower Small Wall is just 0.2 miles away, and Hen's Nest Rock is 0.3 miles off. Osbourne Bend Loop Trail #240 and Sky Bridge are both within a mile.

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive

Hen's Nest RockPhoto: US Forest Service - Southern Region, Public domain (via Wikimedia Commons)

Hen's Nest Rock

~1 min drive

Hen's Nest Rock in Kentucky offers 10 traditional climbing routes across 7 difficulty grades.

Buzzard's RoostPhoto: US Forest Service - Southern Region, Public Domain Mark (via Flickr)

Buzzard's Roost

~1 min drive

Kentucky crag with varied climbing on natural rock formations.

Eastern Skybridge RidgePhoto: US Forest Service - Southern Region, Public Domain Mark (via Flickr)

Eastern Skybridge Ridge

~1 min drive

Kentucky sandstone climbing in the Red River Gorge region with scenic forest setting.

Eastern Sky Bridge RidgePhoto: US Forest Service - Southern Region, Public Domain Mark (via Flickr)

Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge

~1 min drive

Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge in Kentucky has 24 climbing routes across 16 grades.

Lower Sky Bridge RidgePhoto: US Forest Service - Southern Region, Public Domain Mark (via Flickr)

Lower Sky Bridge Ridge

~1 min drive

Kentucky climbing on natural rock with varied terrain and scenic setting.

Princess ArchPhoto: US Forest Service - Southern Region, Public Domain Mark (via Flickr)

Princess Arch

~3 min drive

7 routes at Princess Arch in Kentucky span 6 difficulty grades, offering mixed and traditional climbing.

Half MoonPhoto: US Forest Service - Southern Region, Public Domain Mark (via Flickr)

Half Moon

~3 min drive

Accessible Kentucky climbing area with moderate routes for developing climbers.

Window WallPhoto: karen roussel, CC0 (via Flickr)

Window Wall

~4 min drive

Kentucky climbing area with varied routes for multiple skill levels.

Pinch-em Tight RidgePhoto: US Forest Service - Southern Region, Public Domain Mark (via Flickr)

Pinch-em Tight Ridge

~4 min drive

Technical Kentucky crag known for demanding climbing and distinctive rock features.

Tarr RidgePhoto: US Forest Service - Southern Region, Public Domain Mark (via Flickr)

Tarr Ridge

~7 min drive

Kentucky ridge crag with varied climbing for multiple skill levels.