Illinois · Rock climbing · Grafton

E: Ryan's Balcony

5 routes
5.8 – 5.11c
Sport · Trad
Mar–May, Sep–Nov
best months

Clear at last check

Weather is good · OpenWeather · checked 20 h ago

Ryan's Balcony is a climbing area in Illinois, about 1.3 miles from the town of Camden. It sits right next to Pere Marquette State Park, and several other climbing areas are within a short distance, including D: Community Effort Wall, C: Hornbein's Wall and G: The Wall of Wild Things, all about 0.1 mile away. The climbing here is a mix of sport and trad routes, with five routes in total. The grades run from 5.8 up to 5.11c. Toothbrush Crack is the only trad route, a 5.8, while sport climbers can choose Gillete Arete at 5.10a/b, 50 Shades Of Grey at 5.10b/c, Vista at 5.10c and The Father's Gift at 5.11c. The first ascents of these routes were made by climbers including Daniel Pyle, Ryan Richardson and Chance Weith. For timing, late spring and early fall are the most comfortable. Typical averages from a nearby weather station show May highs around 77°F and September highs around 81°F, while July averages about 89°F. The Gilbert Lake Hiking Trail is about 0.6 mile away, and the Duncan Farm Trail is about 1.2 miles off. Paddlers can find Otter Creek about 7.7 miles away.

  • Best time to go · Mar–May, Sep–Nov

    Best time to visit E: Ryan's Balcony

    Best months: March–May and September–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      40° / 22°

      7 wet

    2. Feb

      45° / 26°

      7 wet

    3. Mar

      56° / 34°

      10 wet

    4. Apr

      68° / 45°

      11 wet

    5. May

      77° / 56°

      12 wet

    6. Jun

      86° / 65°

      11 wet

    7. Jul

      89° / 68°

      9 wet

    8. Aug

      88° / 66°

      9 wet

    9. Sep

      81° / 57°

      10 wet

    10. Oct

      69° / 46°

      9 wet

    11. Nov

      55° / 35°

      8 wet

    12. Dec

      44° / 27°

      8 wet

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at St Charles Co Ap, MO, 4.3 mi away at 436 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Routes (5)