California · Rock climbing · Ojai

Wheeler Gorge

Wheeler Gorge in California has 34 climbing routes across 18 grades.

34 routes
5.8 – 5.12a
Sport · Bouldering · Trad

Is Wheeler Gorge open right now?

Alert in the area

The Forest Service lists 2 alerts for Los Padres National Forest.

As of · Source: USFS · Los Padres National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Wheeler Gorge

Best months: October–June. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    66° / 34°

  2. Feb

    67° / 36°

  3. Mar

    70° / 39°

  4. Apr

    74° / 41°

  5. May

    77° / 46°

  6. Jun

    82° / 50°

  7. Jul

    89° / 54°

  8. Aug

    91° / 53°

  9. Sep

    88° / 51°

  10. Oct

    81° / 45°

  11. Nov

    73° / 37°

  12. Dec

    65° / 33°

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Ojai, CA, 5 mi away at 745 ft. The station sits about 1,000 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Wheeler Gorge is a climbing area in the Ojai Ranger District of Los Padres National Forest in California, managed by the Forest Service. The surrounding area is packed with climbing, with the East Gully (aka "Cobble Choss") just 0.1 mile away and Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering about 0.2 mile off. For an overnight base, Holiday Group Campground sits 0.7 mile from the gorge, and the Wheeler Gorge Nature hike starts 0.8 mile away. The climbing here is mostly sport, with 31 sport routes and a single trad route among the 34 listed. Grades run from 5.8 up to 5.12, with the median around 5.10-. The routes include Cobble Climb (5.8), Irie Girl (5.9), Aha! (5.11a) and Aquaphobia (5.12), the hardest of the lot. Spring and fall are the most comfortable times to visit. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Ojai show April highs around 74°F and October highs around 81°F, while July and August average in the upper 80s to low 90s. The station sits roughly 1,000 feet below the gorge, so temperatures at the crag run cooler.

Routes (34)

RiparianFA: Alex Bury (September 2014)5.10-EconomiqueFA: TR: Gould / Lead: Matthew & Marisa Fienup (2005)5.10aGridlockFA: Erik and Crystal Anderson5.10aSunshine Dust BunniesFA: J Ouyang, Nick Wiltsie, Brian Pidduck (Spring 2005)5.10aLow Grade Beaver TranquilizerFA: Eric benevente5.10a/bWater BoyFA: Tony Becchio, Darren Odgers, Mike Forest5.10a/bSick BoyFA: Odgers, Forest, Becchio (July 2016)5.10bGoularaFA: Mike Gould & Tony Agulara, 19955.10cBoom BoyFA: Tony Becchio, Darren Odgers, Mike Forest (July 2016)5.10dOjai UrinalFA: Nick LeProhon & Eric Benevente5.10dThe WheelFA: Alex Bury (GU 2014)5.11Aha!FA: Gupta, Gould, Edwards (1995)5.11aBlushFA: Mike Gould & Tony Agulara, 1994/55.11aDanger BoyFA: Gould, Agulara, Brannon, 19955.11aExodusFA: Mike Gould & Tony Agulara, 1994/55.11aLittle BuckarooFA: Matthew Fienup & Jesse Groves5.11aStuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy)FA: Stuart Ruckman, 19925.11aBitch Free ZoneFA: Erik Benevente, Mike Levanduski (Sept. 2014)5.11a/bSilent MindFA: Steve Edwards & Arvind Gupta, 19955.11bBeanFA: Scott Yarno (1997)5.11cRoadside DistractionFA: Brian Spiering (2008)5.11cVelocity BoyFA: Gould, Agulara (1994)5.11cAquaphobiaFA: Mike Gould (1996)5.12It Is ItFA: Edwards, Gupta, Gould (1995)5.12aCobble ClimbFA: Sevilla, Anderson5.8Ripple RiderFA: Alex Bury, Maxwell Miller (September 2014)5.8CruiserFA: Louie Anderson, Travis Sevilla5.8+Lost Trout5.8+Crystal PoolsFA: Bury, Parker5.9Irie GirlFA: Eire Rayas, Tony Becchio, Darren Odgers5.9Stolen From MikeFA: Mike Levanduski & Eric Benaventes (2014)5.9EzraFA: Gould, Agulara, 19945.9-Saddle-Up CupcakeFA: (FTR unknown) FA: Matthew Fienup, Nicole Clancy & Kathleen Wathan (Sep. 2009)5.9-South of the Trout FarmFA: Gould, Agulara5.9+

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