California · Rock climbing · Corona del Mar

Pirate's Cove (aka The Beach or Corona Del Mar)

Pirate's Cove in California has 50 climbing routes with bouldering pads and trad.

50 routes
V0 – V7
Bouldering · Trad

Best time to visit Pirate's Cove (aka The Beach or Corona Del Mar)

Best months: Year-round. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    65° / 50°

    6 wet

  2. Feb

    63° / 51°

    6 wet

  3. Mar

    65° / 53°

    5 wet

  4. Apr

    66° / 55°

    3 wet

  5. May

    67° / 58°

    1 wet

  6. Jun

    68° / 62°

    1 wet

  7. Jul

    72° / 65°

    0 wet

  8. Aug

    73° / 66°

    0 wet

  9. Sep

    74° / 64°

    1 wet

  10. Oct

    73° / 60°

    2 wet

  11. Nov

    68° / 54°

    3 wet

  12. Dec

    64° / 50°

    6 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Newport Beach Harbor, CA, 0.7 mi away at 10 ft. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Pirate's Cove, also known as The Beach or Corona Del Mar, is a bouldering area on the California coast within Corona del Mar State Beach, which is managed as city land. It sits among a cluster of climbing spots, with Parking Lot Boulders and the Corona Del Mar area both about 0.1 mile away. The climbing here is almost entirely bouldering, with 48 of the 50 routes falling into that category. Two are traditional routes, and grades run from V0- up to V7 on the V scale. Typical averages from a nearby weather station at Newport Beach Harbor point to the warmest, driest stretch from July through September, when highs reach the low to mid 70s and wet days are rare. For a change from the crag, the MacArthur Sidepath and Buck Gully Trail are both within about a mile and a half. The Laguna Beach climbing area lies roughly 7 miles away.

Routes (50)

Lieback5.7Baby RickyFA: Rick Accomazzo?5.8Knob City5.8The Layback5.8The Pyramid5.8Rib Romp5.9The Hinge5.9+Fale ProblemV0Hinge IndirectV0Pin HoleV0Pin ScarV0The ShelfV0Dave's ProblemFA: Dave EvansV0-Gather UpV0+High Over Beached WhalesV0+Slip and Slide 5.5V0+Tin ManV0+Diamond Man DynoV1Green BurritoV1Head Above the StairsV1Jelly beanV1Onion ManV1Sand GullyV1Wet ToesFA: Andres VourakisV1-2Courtney's sideV1+C.F.'s Edge CrankFA: Craig Fry?V2Crystal ClearV2Little RickyFA: Rick Accomazzo?V2My Dog Ringo.V2Not EvenV2Pin Scar DirectV2-3Iron ManV3Italian FallV3Not Even Chips (and reverse)V3-Jumpluff TraverseV3-4Nowhere ManV3-4Big RickyFA: Rick Accomazzo?V4Diamond ManV4Ecto the CollectorFA: Hector Calderon?V4Hinge DirectV4Poodle PressV4Shark's ToothV4Chips AhoyV4-5AnabelV4+FaithV4+Diamond Man ExtensionV5Piss TakeFA: Evan Sisk?V6Captain Hook AreteV7Paper BoyV7Roman EngineeringFA: Jimmy Chulich (maybe)V7

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive