California · Rock climbing · San Diego

Middle Earth

Middle Earth in California has 49 climbing routes across 17 grades, offering mixed, sport, and trad styles.

Middle EarthPhoto: The Dye Clan, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)
49 routes
5.6 – 5.12a
Sport · Trad · Mixed

Best time to visit Middle Earth

Best months: Year-round. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    67° / 47°

    8 wet

  2. Feb

    67° / 48°

    8 wet

  3. Mar

    68° / 50°

    7 wet

  4. Apr

    70° / 52°

    5 wet

  5. May

    72° / 57°

    3 wet

  6. Jun

    75° / 60°

    1 wet

  7. Jul

    80° / 64°

    1 wet

  8. Aug

    82° / 65°

    1 wet

  9. Sep

    81° / 63°

    1 wet

  10. Oct

    78° / 58°

    3 wet

  11. Nov

    72° / 51°

    5 wet

  12. Dec

    67° / 46°

    8 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at San Diego Miramar Nas, CA, 5.6 mi away at 477 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Middle Earth is a climbing area in Mission Trails Regional Park in San Diego, California, on city-managed land. It sits among a cluster of other climbing spots, with Limbo Area, The Grinding Stones Circuit and The Big Orange Block (aka The Spear Head) all about 0.1 mile away. The area has 49 routes, with sport climbing the most common style at 30 routes, and trad at 13. Grades run from 5.6 to 5.12a, with the median at 5.10a. Among the named routes are Cirith Ungol (5.6, trad), Khazad-dûm (5.10b, sport) and Art Imitates Life (5.12a, sport). Spring and fall are the most comfortable times to visit. Typical averages from a nearby weather station show May highs around 72°F and October highs around 78°F, with only a few wet days in each. Summer is warmer, with August highs near 82°F.

Routes (49)

Afterthought5.10aArt of the PissantFA: Dave Kennedy, Joan Bertini5.10aCaradhrasFA: Erik Beck5.10aFool's GoldFA: Art Messier 19995.10aKarmic Relief5.10aRisky BusinessFA: Art Messier5.10aME Overhang Center5.10a/bKhazad-dûmFA: Ken Cook, Werner Landry, Glaen Kirkwood5.10bShelob's LairFA: John Vawter5.10bStink Finger5.10bStraight Out of SitkaFA: Kevin Meadows5.10bStrider Face5.10bIsengard5.10cLord of the RingsFA: Dave Kennedy, Joan Bertini5.10cMiddle Finger5.10cBig Kahuna5.10dClairemont CallingFA: tom donnelly5.10dOrange SunshineFA: Let Me Know5.10dOut on a WhimFA: Lead bolt 1998, anchor older.5.10dBalrog5.11Rocking the Dalai LamaFA: Kevin Meadows 19995.11+Andúril5.11aGlamdringFA: Galen Kirkwood5.11aGrandpa's Dihedral5.11aBlack RiderFA: David Rubine, 19865.11bWhen Good Books Go BadFA: Tom Donnelly5.11cArt Imitates LifeFA: Dave Kennedy (2001)5.12aCirith Ungol5.6Radagast5.6Smeagol's SurpriseFA: Bob Van Belle, Doug White5.6Strider5.6Easy RiderFA: Art Messier5.7Gandalf5.7Room With A View (aka Helm's Deep)5.7Slice and Dice5.7Merryanne5.7+Dimrill StairFA: John Hooper5.8DwarrowdelfFA: Guy Andrews, Werner Landry5.8Fangorn Crack5.8Little Bruiser5.8Nameless Right of Shadowfax5.8Nameless to the right of Fools Gold5.8Sam I AmFA: Dave Kennedy, Joan Bertini5.8Shadowfax5.8OrthancFA: John Hooper5.8-ME Overhang Left5.9Morannon5.9OrcFA: Mike Paul, Galen Kirkwood Pre-19905.9Rock Wrestling/ Smaug5.9

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive