Do I need a permit to climb in this area?

Much of the climbing near Cedar Crest falls within the Cibola National Forest and the Sandia Mountain Wilderness. Wilderness areas generally prohibit fixed anchors and require Leave No Trace practices. Check current Cibola National Forest regulations before your trip, as rules around bolting and anchor materials can affect how you approach certain routes.

What gear should I bring?

A standard trad rack covers most routes in the area, and many lines also have fixed protection. Bring a full set of cams and nuts if you're heading to less-developed walls like the Clandestine Wall. A 60-meter rope handles the majority of routes, though confirm individual route lengths before committing. Helmets are strongly recommended given the rocky approaches and potential for loose rock on some of the lesser-traveled lines.

How long are the approaches to the main climbing areas?

Approaches vary by area. Chimney Canyon and Muralla Grande are among the more accessible, with relatively short hikes from trailhead parking. Some routes require scrambling over talus to reach the base, so approach shoes or approach-friendly footwear is worth packing alongside your climbing shoes. Give yourself extra time on your first visit to any new area since trail signage can be minimal.

New Mexico · Rock Climbing

Rock Climbing in Cedar Crest, New Mexico

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Rock Climbing · 50 spots

Cedar Crest sits on the eastern slope of the Sandia Mountains, and the rock climbing here draws from a deep well of routes spread across areas like Muralla Grande, Chimney Canyon, and the Clandestine Wall. With 50 active listings in the area, there's enough variety that a weekend trip won't leave you repeating yourself. The rock is predominantly granite and rhyolite, and the route names alone — Sand in My Sombrero, Boogers & Chocolate, Skinwalker — give you a sense of the local culture: serious climbing with a sense of humor about it. You'll find everything from moderate ridge routes like North Ridge and Upper South Ridge to more committing lines like Shot Through The Heart and Excitable Boys Headwall Variation. The eastern-facing aspects mean morning shade in summer and afternoon sun in shoulder seasons, which matters a lot when you're planning around New Mexico heat. Access is generally straightforward from Cedar Crest, with most areas reachable without a long approach, though some walls require a bit of scrambling to reach the base. Whether you're working a project on the Clandestine Wall or ticking off routes at Chimney Canyon, the climbing here rewards people who show up with beta and a flexible schedule.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best time of year to climb in Cedar Crest?

Spring (April-May) and fall (September-October) are the most reliable seasons. Summer afternoons bring monsoon thunderstorms that can roll in fast, so early starts are essential from July through August. Winter is possible on south-facing routes during clear stretches, but snow and ice can linger on shaded walls like those at Chimney Canyon.

What skill level do I need for the routes here?

The 50 listings in the Cedar Crest area cover a wide range. Routes like North Ridge and Upper South Ridge tend to be more approachable for intermediate climbers, while lines like Shot Through The Heart and Excitable Boys Headwall Variation are better suited to experienced leaders comfortable on sustained terrain. If you're newer to outdoor climbing, start at Chimney Canyon or Muralla Grande where the route density gives you options to warm up and back off if needed.

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive

Chimney Canyon

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New Mexico canyon crag with crack and face climbing in a scenic setting.

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