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California · Rock Climbing
Silverado's rock climbing scene is centered almost entirely on bouldering, with Black Star Canyon serving as the main access point for a cluster of problems that range from beginner-friendly traverses to more committing lines.
8 spotsUpdated weeklyFree to access
View on mapRock Climbing · 8 spots
Silverado's rock climbing scene is centered almost entirely on bouldering, with Black Star Canyon serving as the main access point for a cluster of problems that range from beginner-friendly traverses to more committing lines. The eight listed problems here — including Arrowhead, Suz, Slick Nugget, Freesol, Spine, Suz Sit, and the Dwarf Traverse — give you a solid day's worth of movement on what is generally featured, canyon-wall sandstone. The Dwarf Traverse in particular is the kind of problem that rewards patience and footwork over raw power, while Suz and its sit-start variant (Suz Sit) let you dial in the same sequence from two different entry points. Black Star Canyon itself is a well-known Orange County destination, which means weekend crowds are real, especially in cooler months. If you're driving out from the LA or Inland Empire side, the approach is straightforward, but the canyon road has its quirks and the area has historically had access sensitivities worth knowing before you go. Plan your visit for a weekday morning in fall or winter if you want the rock to yourself and the temperatures to cooperate.
The listed problems cover a range, with the Dwarf Traverse being a good option for climbers still building technique since traverses reward balance and footwork over high-end strength. Problems like Suz Sit, which is a sit-start variant of Suz, tend to add difficulty by lowering the starting position, so expect that pairing to span at least a grade or two. If you're a newer boulderer, start on the traverse and work toward the stand-up problems before committing to the sit starts.
Fall through early spring is the reliable window — roughly October through March. Southern California summers push canyon temperatures high enough that friction on the rock drops noticeably and the approach becomes unpleasant by mid-morning. Winter weekdays are the sweet spot for both conditions and solitude.
Black Star Canyon Bouldering
Natural bouldering in a California canyon with varied problems and scenic surroundings.
Utility Belt (sit)
~18 min drive
A worthwhile stop near California.
Black Hole Sun
~27 min drive
A worthwhile stop near California.
Batman Boulder
~18 min drive
Solid California boulder field with problems for multiple ability levels.
Guano Right
~18 min drive
A worthwhile stop near California.
Space Walk
~27 min drive
A worthwhile stop near California.
Trabuco Creek
~21 min drive
California canyon climbing at Trabuco Creek with natural rock formations.
Joker (Stand Start)
~18 min drive
A worthwhile stop near California.
Flake
~27 min drive
A worthwhile stop near California.
Riverside Area
~24 min drive
Accessible California climbing in the Riverside Area with varied routes.
Anarky
~18 min drive
A worthwhile stop near California.
Short & wide offwidth
~27 min drive
A worthwhile stop near California.
Bring a bouldering pad (at least one, two if you're working harder problems with awkward landings), climbing shoes, a brush for holds, and plenty of water since there's no water source in the canyon. Sun protection matters on the approach even in cooler months. A spotter is worth having for the sit starts.
Black Star Canyon has had a history of access issues and the road into the canyon is narrow and unpaved in sections. Check current conditions and any posted closures before you go, as the area is on private land in parts and access rules have changed over the years. Arriving early on weekends also helps with the limited roadside parking.
It's manageable solo for experienced boulderers who are comfortable self-spotting on lower-consequence problems like the Dwarf Traverse. For sit starts like Suz Sit, having a partner to spot and help manage the pad placement makes a real difference. If you're going alone, stick to problems where the landing is flat and the consequences of a fall are low.
