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New Mexico · Rock Climbing
Embudo sits in the Rio Grande corridor of northern New Mexico, and the rock climbing here is almost entirely bouldering — short, powerful problems on the volcanic and sedimentary rock that lines the canyon.
8 spotsUpdated weeklyFree to access
View on mapRock Climbing · 8 spots
Embudo sits in the Rio Grande corridor of northern New Mexico, and the rock climbing here is almost entirely bouldering — short, powerful problems on the volcanic and sedimentary rock that lines the canyon. The Pilar Area is the hub, a well-known climbing zone where routes like C3PO, Surf Report, Charlie Don't Surf, and the thorn-themed pair Live by the Thorn and Die by the Thorn give you a sense of the local sense of humor and the range of movement styles on offer. With eight listed problems in and around this stretch, it's not a destination you'll spend a week ticking off a massive ticklist, but it's a solid half-day or full-day stop, especially if you're already passing through on US-68 between Taos and Española. The canyon walls provide shade at different times of day depending on the season, which matters a lot when New Mexico sun is involved. This is a place where knowing a few specific problem names before you show up makes the difference between finding good rock quickly and wandering around a canyon.
All eight listed routes in this area are bouldering problems. There are no sport or trad routes in the current listings for this location, so leave the rope and harness at home if bouldering is your goal. The Pilar Area is the central climbing zone covering these problems.
Spring and fall are generally the most comfortable seasons in the Rio Grande canyon, when temperatures are moderate and the rock isn't baking. Summer midday heat in this high-desert canyon can make friction-dependent bouldering miserable, so early morning sessions are worth planning for if you visit between June and August. Winter is possible on warmer days since the canyon sits at a relatively low elevation compared to the Taos plateau above.
Pilar Area Bouldering
~0 min drive
Varied bouldering in scenic northern New Mexico with problems for multiple levels.
Righthand Arete
~1 min drive
A worthwhile stop near New Mexico.
Traditionally Incorrect
~4 min drive
A worthwhile stop near New Mexico.
Afterburner Face
~4 min drive
Vertical New Mexico crag with engaging routes for intermediate to advanced climbers.
Charlie Don't Surf
~1 min drive
A worthwhile stop near New Mexico.
Mariposa
~4 min drive
A worthwhile stop near New Mexico.
Bat Cave
~4 min drive
Bat Cave climbing area in New Mexico with varied routes for multiple skill levels.
C3PO
~1 min drive
A worthwhile stop near New Mexico.
Rat Run
~4 min drive
A worthwhile stop near New Mexico.
Wayne Manor
~4 min drive
Versatile New Mexico crag with routes for multiple climbing styles and abilities.
Surf Report
~1 min drive
A worthwhile stop near New Mexico.
The Penguin
~4 min drive
A worthwhile stop near New Mexico.
Also worth it near here
Bring a crash pad, climbing shoes, and a brush for cleaning holds. Because these are boulder problems rather than roped routes, you won't need a harness, rope, or protection gear. A second crash pad is worth considering if you're climbing solo, since some landings in canyon bouldering areas can be uneven.
The Pilar Area is located along US-68 in the Rio Grande Gorge corridor, a short drive south of Embudo toward the village of Pilar. Parking pullouts along the highway serve as the main access points, and the BLM manages much of this land. Check current road and access conditions before you go, as seasonal flooding or road work on US-68 can affect parking.
The listing names alone — Die by the Thorn, Charlie Don't Surf — suggest problems with some character to them, but the area does have a mix of difficulties across its eight problems. If you're new to bouldering, going with someone who has climbed here before will help you find the more approachable lines rather than walking up to a hard problem cold. There are no listed guided climbing services specific to this area in the current listings.
